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Joined: May 2001
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W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I can't get grease into the new zerk for my kingpins. I read where there's a tool that you can load with grease, put it on the zerk and tap the end with a hammer. (Tap not hit.) You could also put oil thinned with kerosene in it and work your way up to grease.

Anybody know of such a tool?


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
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'Bolter
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I do not know of the tool, but what I do when greasing my kingpins is I jack up the front end and turn the steering wheel left and right while adding grease (I have a helper of course). When I first got the truck I had a hard time getting grease into the kingpins, and now it goes easily.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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A Propane torch is your friend- - - - -there's nothing about a kingpin and a spindle that will be damaged by a little heat. Decades' worth of old congealed grease is going to be hard to dislodge unless you warm it up a little.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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'Bolter
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!956 Gmc Napco 4x4 Factory line built .

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'Bolter
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I believe there is a hole in the kingpin bushing that lines up with the grease fitting hole? If not lined up the grease has nowhere to go. I've used Jerrys propane torch method to free up many clogged grease fittings on my farm machinery.

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
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Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
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Just be careful doing that on the round baler! 😉 Clean it out first!


1970 Chevrolet C10
Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny
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1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually
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'Bolter
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You wrote that this is a new zerk. Recently I installed a new zerk on a farm machinery fitting and it would absolutely not accept grease. Had me completely befuddled for a moment or so... Turns out it was broken from the factory. You may want to remove the zerk and run some grease through it to see if it actually works.


1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
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J
24601
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Wally,

I think you are referring to this tool -- the Grease Fitting Cleaning Tool. NAPA sells one, too, as do most other mechanical tool retailers. I have one and have used it extensively on my truck, the backhoe and other pieces of farm machinery -- at least until I figured out that a box of assorted new zerks (in the correct thread...) was the better answer -- especially on antique equipment with fossilized grease. I was taught to use diesel fuel and to whack the crap out of it -- which usually makes a mess and, on older equipment with fossilized grease and corroded zerks, isn't effective anyway.

JM


~ John

A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.

1949 Chevrolet 3804
In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum
1973 IH 1310 Dump
1963 Kaiser M38A1
2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie"
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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.....at the plant we had rollers inside a hot oven that we had to grease the pillar bearing on and it was a tough job.
We would take the zerk out and soak them good with Kroil and let it set for a few minutes as we moved on greasing the ones that were not clogged. After a few minutes we could get the dried clogged ones to take the grease.....just another suggestion.


1937 Chevy Pickup
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'Bolter
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The new zerks were OK. On jack stands, I torched it. Still, couldn't get an grease into it. Mrs. Wally wanted her garage back so I took it to an alignment shop. They worked on it with penetrating oil and got grease into it. It's not real loosie goosie but I'm happy. One hour of labor charge was worthwhile to me. $92.

Thanks for your advice!


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
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K
'Bolter
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Sometimes you have to put the truck on stands up front and have someone turn the steering while grease is being pumped in .


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
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T
'Bolter
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I see this often at work with stuff that hasn’t been breaded in a long time,

The grease goes hard and blocks the port solid, it depends how bad it is as to how far you have to go, an easy starting point is to grab a 1/4” drill.

Take the grease fitting out and with your hands wind the drill in and pull the crap out. Often this opens it up enough so it will take grease again. I’ve also had it where it’s still blocked so I made up a fitting that would go into the item with a JIC on the other end so I can fit a porta power pump to it and pump hydraulic oil through it to clear the blockage.

After that you’ve just got to strip it down and clean everything out

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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Regular maintenance would prevent the hardening grease issue. It just needs a shot now and then.

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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Take the fitting out and dose it with some Kroil or other penetrating oil and let it work.
.....we use to have rollers with the pillar block bearing on the inside of a drying over that would get hard and not take grease. A good soaking with Kroil a time or two and let it sit for a little, would do the trick.


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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Or one could just buy new grease fittings to fit, they are cheap.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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Renaissance Man
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The Book says to grease the king pins every 1,000 miles. Who does that?


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Every 1,000 miles - I do it.

I love my trucks and I take care of them. grin
I do not want to void the warranty. chug

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Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
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Please be careful heating grease fittings! I treated a guy who got it hot enough that burning grease flew back into his face and neck. It melted his skin and was pretty disturbing!

Chris

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'Bolter
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My neighbor didn't know he was supposed to grease the king pins. So eventually the bushings seized to the pins and spun the bushings in the spindle. By the time it got to me you could hardly turn the steering wheel. No way to get grease in. So with nothing to lose I took the drill and made new holes in the bushings. Now it would take grease. So he drove it a while till the kingpins started to rattle and he couldn't keep it going straight and I put new kingbolt set in. It would have been hell to get apart with it all seized up. Of course I had to heat the axle eyes as it was but I didn't have to heat the spindles.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.

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