| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
9 members (Phak1, Bill Hanlon, Rusty Rod, TUTS 59, Napco Man, Cosmo, ndkid275, 2 invisible),
57
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,089 Posts1,056,004 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2019 Posts: 223 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2019 Posts: 223 | I will have to make/install a transmission "hump" in my '50 3100 to accommodate my 4L60E tranny. Any suggestions as to what is the easiest/cheapest/best way to do this? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | How big a "hump is needed" (floor cut-out, and, height above the floor)?
I can think of a few easy answers, if an oil pan might work? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 136 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 136 | I helped a friend build a transmission hump for a small car that he was putting a 350 engine and a Turbo 350 transmission in.
The engine and transmission had come out of a mid 70's Chevy half ton pickup, so I cut the transmission hump out of it. I used the hump to determine how much floorboard to cut out of the car. Did a little trimming to fit here and there. We test fit everything and then welded it in.
'53 3100 5-window '57 Mercury Monterey 2-Door Sedan Tim H
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | Have you test fitted the cab to the frame to see how much of a "hump" that you need? You might be able to get away with making 3 cuts in the toeboard and bending the metal up to clear transmission. You can then weld up the pie shaped gaps in the toe board. Then all you will need to do is massage the transmission floor cover to match the contour of the new shape of the toeboard and to clear the transmission. I have done this twice. Once with a TH350 and once with a TH400.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | With my panel body in place and using a 700R4 tranny, I only had to cut about 1/2" off the lip of the tow board. When I laid the tranny cover in place you really couldn't see it.
... a lot of this will depend on just how far back, or forward, your engine is mounted. I used the instructions and mounting kit from Classic parts back several years ago and the instructions were great. Just saying. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2019 Posts: 223 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2019 Posts: 223 | I plan on installing a bolt-on IFS. In doing so, are the motor mounts still moveable fore and aft or are they positioned in accordance with the IFS? I'm not asking this properly I know. Achipmunk commented that the hump will be determined by how far back or forward the engine is mounted...I assume from his above comments that the IFS does NOT determine engine placement. I haven't got that far yet with install knowledge on an IFS. | | |
| |
| |