The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline New Tie-Rod End Job

Hey All,
On Friday I just received my new tie-rod and ends for my 48' 1/2ton. The tie-rod seems to be too big for the threads of the new ends.
It took all of my strength to get as far as you see in the pic...I called LMC yesterday, and I told the lady what was happening. She looked it up, and stated that there was a previous customer in the logs with a similar concern, and tech-support informed him that spreading the ends a little will help. Doesn't seem correct to me, but just a feeling. You can already start to see it flaring just two threads in...Have any of you run into this?
By the way, the rod they sent stated is was for 47-56' and is a heavier duty rod then original. Appreciate the feedback. Thanks Steve

I'll bet that someone at the factory got a bit aggressive tightening the clamp bolt on the tie rod end and squished it so it's too small to easily thread onto the rod.

Both left and right are exactly the same way. I cleaned all threads, and neither clamp bolt is tight.

Most likely they are a "miss-fit" in design and in manufacturing (for 47-55st, at least)?

Do you have the old ends and rod to try? You could narrow it down which is the offender. it maybe the rod thread that’s too big.

Good suggestions, Phak1 - the tie-rod might not be original?

In the OP's pic, the tie rod appears to be brand-spanking new, as is the end pictured. Could also be a thread pitch issue.

Maybe it is just the lighting but the first few threads appear to be wiped. That could happen if the threads didn't match.

The tie-rods ends are designed to CLAMP only....not spread and clamp. Providing the tie-rod is OEM correct dia. and as mentioned above correct thread pitch. I also concur that the first thread or two is wiped.

Hey Guys - The threads are crisp. Both ends of the new rod have a flat starting portion, and I could see how the pic makes it look like wiped threads. My original rod was damaged and has frozen ends, but I did grab a quick measurement of the old thread heights for a comparison. Bummer as its a nice rod... Steve

This may be a stupid question, but are you sure you didn’t mix them up? One tie rod end is a left hand thread to match the rod. Just a thought!

Hey Phil - Not a stupid question at all. but no, they are on the correct ends. Both sides are just as tight...Steve

Take the bolts out. Take a large cold chisel to use as a wedge and strike with a MFH (Medium Force Hammer ) to spread the ears out until you have enough slack to easily thread it on.
I have had to do this with crusty original ends and shafts to get them to go on smoothly.
What do you have to lose? If it doesn't work, send them back. No one will know any difference. I will make my standard bet of 1 dozen donuts that you won't need to send them back.
Carl

A couple of things. It appears you are roughly .006 to .007 heavier on the OD new rod vs. old. Secondly, if memory serves I believe the rod ends are left and right hand threads.

Once again attempting to flare the casting of the rod end should NOT be attempted. Think for a minute. Even if you could get the rod started say a thread or two then what. Its still a smaller (tapered) opening as you attempt to thread the rod any further.

IMHO, you have mis-matched parts. And in today's aftermarket world that would not be a shocking surprise.

You stated that the Tie Rod is Heavy Duty, are you sure it's not a 3/4 or 1 ton part number? I have the LMC Tie Rod and Ends on my 59' ( I know yours is an AD) both are the Heavy Duty and fit together great.

TUTS is correct, I have a 1/2 & 1 ton front axle && I took a mic to them. The 1/2ton drag link is 1/2 inch & the one tons (not sure about 3/4) is 1 inch. That has to be the problem.. He either needs the tie rod ends for the 1/2ton or a drag link from a 1ton to use those tie rod ends....joe

There was a similar thread on this topic last August:
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1321092/1.html

Tim posted a link to the parts book on the old car manual site. According to the book (as I read it), the tie rod is supposed to have 3/4 - 16 threads and the tie rod ends are supposed to have 25/32 - 16 threads.

Thanks All...I confirmed the ends say 1/2 ton in the LMC description. The tie-rod part just has a year range for 1st series.

Thanks Gord for adding the link with thread intel. I'm going to go check that out...

Measuring the OD of the rod isn’t going to tell you much because that is not telling you if the thread was cut deep enough. You would need to measure the root of the thread on the rod and the ID of the thread on the tie rod ends to give you any idea if it is going to work. Tough to do without the right tools. They make micrometers to do just that but is cost prohibitive. Not many of us have taps and dies in that size, not to mention you would also need them in left hand configuration.

You could try as Fox suggested to spread the tie rod ends a bit or just send them back and either get another set from LMC or try another vendor.

A thread gauge would be beneficial.

Why do you all insist on telling him to spread the rod end....that's just not kosher.

Because it works. Those clamp ends are not brittle.

Not on any of my hot-rods!

I wonder how much a local machine shop would charge to make a tie rod. Tell them you need a 3/4" bar of the proper length, threaded both ends. Give them the tie rod ends and tell them that they have to fit.

There must be something wrong with the tie rod, I still think you were sent the wrong part. The warehouse may have miss marked the part. I would return the tie rod and request an exchange.

Take the right hand threaded tie-rod end to the hardware store and see if it will thread on to a standard 3/4 - 16 bolt. If it does, the rod is wrong, if it won't, the ends are wrong. They should thread on each other with no tools needed, all mine have.

Do the same with the tie rod and a nut. Great suggestion Joe H!

I have a left and right hand tap for 3/4-16 and two NOS tie-rod ends. Both taps screw right in the tie-rods with no tools needed. The hole in the tie-rod measures .730", taps OD measure .750.

Per Joe & Phil's comments, I just went to the hardware store. Both nut and bolt are 3/4-16. Looks like the tie-rod ends are a keeper and the rod goes back!
Thanks All Steve...

Is the original rod bent? If not you can most likely get the tie rod ends off the existing rod by cutting the bolts off with a hack saw (if you can’t coax them off with penetrant, heat or both) and as 52Carl suggested, use a cold chisel in the the slot to expand the thread. Use some penetrating oil to help break the rust bond. I used that same procedure on my ‘52 and was able to save the parts and just install the rebuild kit. They were pretty crusty but after cleaning and painting looked new.

Usually the most simple test solves our mystery. This thread should remind us all to start with the most simple things before we jump through all the hoops trying to fix something. This was a good teachable moment!

Phil - Yep, unfortunately the original tie-rod has a few bends, or I would do as you and 52 suggested...

Chuck - Totally agree...Perfect example of Occam's razor from philosophy. "The more assumptions you have to make, the more unlikely an explanation."

Before returning the sweet rod, I have a trip planned to my local machine shop to see if there exists enough material to re-thread to the 3/4-16 (right and left twists)...

Thanks Steve

And NO mechanical force required

What size is your "sweet rod"?

I only know it's not 3/4"-16

Just wanted to add a little to this. I bought my tie rod from LMC, when it was delivered there was nothing in the box, the shipping label had the weight on it and everything. The next morning I took the box to UPS, they had a record of delivery so it had to be the shippers fault. I asked to speak to he manager, while the clerk went to get the manager as noticed what she had propped the door open with, my tie rod. Seems they found it on the loading dock, the driver had just taped the box where it had come out. Go figure.