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#1325320 09/08/2019 2:02 PM
Joined: Jun 2014
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C
Shop Shark
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Any suggestions on keeping oil in the valve cover?

I’ve done two gaskets and it is still pouring out of the left front. What is everyone’s thought on removing the “blanket” that is inside the cover. I’m wondering if that isn’t directing the oil to one side.


~Justin

1937 Chevy 1/2-ton
"Wylburr Clyde"
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My Grandfather bought it new and Dad drove it through highschool. The 3rd & 4th generations put it back on the road on 8/8/2015!
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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That "blanket" was standard equipment.

Maybe one of our old-time truck-engine owners will comment on the purpose.

My guess is that it has something to do will lubricating the rocker-arm assembly and the valve stems?

Joined: Feb 2004
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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If it's a thick piece of felt, it's a holdover from the 4 cylinder days in the late 1920's when the rocker arms got lubed by squirting oi through some small holes in the valve cover with a hand-pump oil can to saturate the pad. Later 216's and newer engines didn't have that pad, so it probably won't hurt to remove it. A better idea would be to find where the valve cover is warped and straighten it. Remove the cover and invert it on a workbench and use something like a long carpenter's level and a feeler gauge to check for bowed spots that are failing to put pressure on the gasket. Repeatedly overtightening the valve cover hold down nuts can warp the valve cover and upset the sealing surface.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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'
Shop Shark
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The Filling Station

sells a valve silencer pad .

https://www.fillingstation.com/shop/?year=All&vehtype=All&search=silencer&searchtype=FT

They were also made for V-8's

https://i.postimg.cc/7ZR50PRh/Chev-Silencer.jpg


George
'54 3600


1954 3600
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E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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There is also a thin, steel strap that extends either side of hold down bolts that spread pressure, obviously won't work with center bolts.

Ec


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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M
'Bolter
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What I did. It works on my truck but no guarantees on yours. As Jerry suggests straighten the flange, then apply a coat of your favorite high tack gasket product to the very clean and straight valve cover and stick your new (correct) gasket to the valve cover. I like KW Copper Coat for a high tack gasket sealer. Then smear Vaseline on the clean head area the gasket seals to. Then I used a gasket in a tube product on the headside of the gasket now firmly stuck to the valve cover. Did this Two years ago, removed a couple times since with no problem and no leaks on the now well seasoned gasket.

Last edited by moparguy; 09/08/2019 9:40 PM.

1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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G
'Bolter
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I had the same problem with a brand new valve cover. Company sent me a replacement and it did the same. I took a small hammer and straight edge and tapped it in t h e places it wasn't sealing. Mind you this was on a new engine install. Just take your time and check it often with straight edge. Small piece of wood helps to rest it on when hammering it.


1949 3100
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5
Renaissance Man
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It would be nice to have an extra loose head laying around to use as an "anvil" on a work bench to tin smith the valve cover into perfect shape. I did this for a 216 valve cover. It was so squashed down and bowed out on the sides that I could not have fixed it otherwise.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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S
'Bolter
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Reality is valve cover and side covers leaked when the engine were new.
Tuning the the cover, glueing the gasket and using a quality gasket helps.

I purchased an aluminum valve cover and used modern gasket cement with no gasket.
No leaks..........



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D
Shop Shark
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If none of the above solutions work for you. You could get your torch, and a brazing rod out, and just weld the cover to the head. wink

I've been plagued with those leaks from time to time. Even when I've already straightened out the cover(s) -- annoying as heck!

All the best!

Chris


'64 Chev C20 LWB stepside (Ol'Blue)
Joined: Nov 1995
Posts: 5,470
Bond Villain
Bond Villain
Joined: Nov 1995
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I discovered a very simple (although somewhat expensive ...) fix for the leaking Stovebolt six .... Park a Detroit 6-71 next to it. Pretty soon, you won't even notice the leaks on the Stovebolt ...


~ John

"We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"

1948 International Farmall Super A
1949 Chevrolet 3804
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Brilliant, John! smile
Quick! Get a patent out on it. Before someone else does. wink

Chris


'64 Chev C20 LWB stepside (Ol'Blue)
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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When your Detroit (or stovebolt) quits leaking, pour some more oil in it- - - -it's empty!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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7
'Bolter
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Jerry, I have always just poured oil ON the Detroits, it'll soak in somewhere. Can we use a 6-92 or an 8-71 if we don't have a 6-71 at hand?


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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S
'Bolter
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Detroit's don't leak, but, they do mark their territory, really well.


Joined: Dec 2002
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Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
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What is the difference between a leak and a seep?


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rod
What is the difference between a leak and a seep?
My criteria is:
A leak makes it to the ground.
A seep just gathers dirt and dust.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Excellent thumbs_up

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Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
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Master Sargent Halfmast (US Army PS Magazine) said : Class 1 - wet residue on surface : Class 2 - Droplets form on surface: Class 3 - Droplets form and fall from surface. grin


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
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'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

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G
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rod
What is the difference between a leak and a seep?

Who owns the truck...if you own it, it seeps, if someone else owns it, it leaks...

My old stepmother used to say the difference between homely and ugly was money.


Moderated by  Gdads51 

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