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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 | This is my first post so here goes.
I have a 1946 3/4 pickup that I am replacing an existing 235 with a newer one. I am not a mechanic and have very little experience. Where do I start?
Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Ronnie Ray
Last edited by Peggy M; 04/18/2023 5:44 PM. Reason: fixed title for more info
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 393 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 393 | Check out the tech tips. Use the Stovebolt and Google searches. Check out devestechnet.com. (Even tho' his site is for '47 to 55.1, there is a lot of information there.) There's a lot of information out there about procedures, tools to buy, etc. Good luck!
It's a small world, but I wouldn't want to paint it.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | The simplest swap would be a '54 235 (car or truck). It has full pressure oil system, insert rod bearings, and the water pump locates the radiator fan in the right position. Another simple swap would be a '53 235 from a car which originally came with a Powerglide transmission. It is very similar to the '54 235 with the exception that it came with hydraulic lifters and aluminum pistons. Later 235s have the water pump located in the wrong place for your radiator, requiring a water pump relocating plate. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,767 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,767 | That's quite an accomplishment- - - -getting a post count of 11 with your first post! Ditto on the 54 year model 235- - - -it's the simplest way to upgrade the engine design, going to pressurized connecting rods and a little more modern features. Us oldtimers who remember how to work on engines with Babbit rod bearings are getting few and far between. If you decide to rebuild the original engine, there's a way to convert to insert rod bearings and raise the oil pressure, and correct a few other problems with the engine design, including replacing the cast iron pistons with aluminum ones. Don't trash the old engine- - - -somebody might want it for an original-appearing restoration, and the spray-oiler 235's are a little scarce these days. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 Carburetion specialist | | Carburetion specialist Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 | WELCOME!
Your post states you are not a mechanic, with very little experience. While the knowledge and help on these forums is fantastic, would highly suggest you also look for local assistance. Cruise-in's are a really good place to meet local enthusiasts that might take an interest in working with you. Local networking may turn up a friend that shares your interest, and would be a "buddy" when changing the engine. If working with something as heavy as an engine that is up in the air, always a good idea to have a buddy present.
Jon. Good carburetion is fuelish hot airThe most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!The Carburetor Shop | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Ronnie Ray,
Welcome to Stovebolt.com.
The 235 in your truck was not an original engine on a 1946 3/4 ton pickup. A 216 would have been standard.
You might want to ID your 235, before looking for a newer/better 235?
What is the code that is stamped into the block in the ledge behind your distributor? | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 | Thanks for the tip. I am going to check that out right now. The numbers on the engine that I am taking out are 3764476 and the numbers on the replacement engine are 3769716. I have an old 216 as well. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 | Good idea. That is exactly what I did last weekend. I may have found a couple of references that can work out. I'm just excited to get the process started and learn as much as I can | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 | I started this process about six or seven years ago and life took one heck of a detour. This time I will see the process through to completion. One step after the other | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 22 | Thanks for the tip. I am in process and gathering as much information as I can, as fast as I can | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 | My reference says your current engine is a 58 and your replacement is a 59. you may be in a good place, both of these are high pressure with insert bearings.
1946 1-ton Panel 1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body | | |
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