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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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Wrench Fetcher
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This is my first post so here goes.

I have a 1946 3/4 pickup that I am replacing an existing 235 with a newer one. I am not a mechanic and have very little experience. Where do I start?

Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Ronnie Ray

Last edited by Peggy M; 04/18/2023 5:44 PM. Reason: fixed title for more info
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Check out the tech tips. Use the Stovebolt and Google searches. Check out devestechnet.com. (Even tho' his site is for '47 to 55.1, there is a lot of information there.) There's a lot of information out there about procedures, tools to buy, etc. Good luck!


It's a small world, but I wouldn't want to paint it.
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5
Renaissance Man
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The simplest swap would be a '54 235 (car or truck). It has full pressure oil system, insert rod bearings, and the water pump locates the radiator fan in the right position.
Another simple swap would be a '53 235 from a car which originally came with a Powerglide transmission. It is very similar to the '54 235 with the exception that it came with hydraulic lifters and aluminum pistons.
Later 235s have the water pump located in the wrong place for your radiator, requiring a water pump relocating plate.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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That's quite an accomplishment- - - -getting a post count of 11 with your first post! Ditto on the 54 year model 235- - - -it's the simplest way to upgrade the engine design, going to pressurized connecting rods and a little more modern features. Us oldtimers who remember how to work on engines with Babbit rod bearings are getting few and far between. If you decide to rebuild the original engine, there's a way to convert to insert rod bearings and raise the oil pressure, and correct a few other problems with the engine design, including replacing the cast iron pistons with aluminum ones. Don't trash the old engine- - - -somebody might want it for an original-appearing restoration, and the spray-oiler 235's are a little scarce these days.
Jerry


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Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
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WELCOME!

Your post states you are not a mechanic, with very little experience. While the knowledge and help on these forums is fantastic, would highly suggest you also look for local assistance. Cruise-in's are a really good place to meet local enthusiasts that might take an interest in working with you. Local networking may turn up a friend that shares your interest, and would be a "buddy" when changing the engine. If working with something as heavy as an engine that is up in the air, always a good idea to have a buddy present.

Jon.


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The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Ronnie Ray,

Welcome to Stovebolt.com.

The 235 in your truck was not an original engine on a 1946 3/4 ton pickup.
A 216 would have been standard.

You might want to ID your 235, before looking for a newer/better 235?

What is the code that is stamped into the block in the ledge behind your distributor?

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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks for the tip. I am going to check that out right now. The numbers on the engine that I am taking out are 3764476 and the numbers on the replacement engine are 3769716. I have an old 216 as well.

carbking #1325632 09/10/2019 4:08 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Good idea. That is exactly what I did last weekend. I may have found a couple of references that can work out. I'm just excited to get the process started and learn as much as I can

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Wrench Fetcher
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I started this process about six or seven years ago and life took one heck of a detour. This time I will see the process through to completion. One step after the other

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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks for the tip. I am in process and gathering as much information as I can, as fast as I can

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'Bolter
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My reference says your current engine is a 58 and your replacement is a 59. you may be in a good place, both of these are high pressure with insert bearings.


1946 1-ton Panel
1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body

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