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#1323601 08/26/2019 6:02 PM
Joined: Aug 2015
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New Guy
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First off, I did a quick check on the internet and couldn’t find an answer, so if I missed it please point me in that direction.

I have a 250 in my 51’, the temp gauge (after market) stopped working so I replaced with a new one. Now it won’t register until it’s up to temp, shut off, and restarted. On initial start up it’ll register if I tap the sensor area with a screwdriver handle. Do I have an air pocket or something? I’ve checked the gauge/sending unit (mechanical type) and it registers. I’ve got a flush tool that uses compressed air, but I think that’s for modern closed systems?

I would appreciate any help, thanks in advance.

Ryan

Joined: Jun 2011
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Did you use teflon tape that would electrically insulate the sender from the block and thus the rest of the truck?

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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Ed, thanks for the reply. Yes the probe was Teflon taped.

Ryan

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Renaissance Man
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Use an OHM meter to check to see if, while installation, the Teflon got out of the way between the threads of the block and the sending unit. It should read the same as though you were touching the two leads together. No resistance.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Crusty Old Sarge
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The OP says the gauge is mechanical type, this should be just a sensing bulb and a gauge. It wouldn't have an electrical coennection. Did I miss something? It may have an air pocket or the sensing bulb may be defective. You can test with a pan of hot water and a kichen thermoeter, the bulb should read the same.


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
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'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
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Tuts 59, yes mechanical and I checked it with hot water. Gauge / bulb are good.

I did check with a meter, but as mentioned it shouldn’t matter with a mechanical gauge?

Still confused, but thanks for all the replies!

Ryan

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Crusty Old Sarge
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Ryan, It could be that the sensing bulb probe is contacting the outer shell and causing it not to read. You did say it would read when you tapped the housing with a screwdriver. It may be loose internally.


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
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Craig, I’ll check if it’s contacting/loose. Not sure how that would change anything though. Probe touching metal or coolant might have different readings, but shouldn’t produce nothing?

Thanks for the help!

Ryan

Joined: Nov 2014
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'Bolter
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I have this problem sometimes (not very often), when I first start the truck, and I've never figured out what does it. It's only at start up and, like yours, if I stop, turn it off and back on, it fixes it. Other times I'll forget about it, and then 5 or 10 miles down the road, it's back to working again. I've always wondered what's going on with that.


"When I rest, I rust"
1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235



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'Bolter
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Ditto, mine does the same thing.



Kevin

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