How many of you have installed a Mar-K kit? Is it a good way to go? Or is it better to make the boards yourself? I need to replace my warped boards and looking for the best route to take.
I read somewhere on here to stand boards up on end and let them soak in the sealer over night so the end grain soaks up the sealer. When I bought this truck the bed was just redone by the PO, and he apparently didn't seal all the sides. The truck has had a shell on it since shortly after I bought it, and when the lovely inept Big Brand Tire employee backed my truck over the hydrant a couple weeks ago, the boards warped. Big Brand will compensate me for the kit, I just need a good end product when all is said and done.
So, Mar-K or approved equal, or build my own boards? I have a some cross supports and a side tank, too, so that'll get added in to the project when I do it.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
Mar-k is a Stovebolt supporter. The former owner is a member and Mar-k Tech will answer questions here. Good home grown company to deal with.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I used Mar-K when I replaced the bed on my '37 project. Since I was looking for the stock look, I intended to paint the bed boards black. On Mar-K's website they have a discussion of their tests of finishes and black paint was the best. I ordered the pine, not the more expensive oak. When the wood arrived, it was so beautiful; not a flaw or knot in any board, and it was hard to apply the paint over that beautiful wood (but I did). Fitment was superb, including those off center holes for the mounting carriage bolts with their special washers.
I am not a woodworker so I could not replicate the bed boards myself. I highly recommend them based on my single experience. Kent
Last edited by Lightholder's Dad; 08/28/201911:40 PM.
I used Mar-k made bed sheet metal, wood and fasteners. I doubt anyone provides a better same product on the planet. It’s not inexpensive, but the trade off in time and headache otherwise would make going with them a “no brainer”, IMO.
Between what I saw on the Mar-K website yesterday, and all y'alls responses, Mar-K is going to be the way I go. I do plan on painting the boards black. I have strips from my old '65 that I had to dismantle, so I can clean those up prior to tearing things down. Thank you for your insight and knowledge. It'll be nice to have straight boards again, but better yet, boards that won't warp.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
Review mar-k bed wood finish experiments. Good info about what treatments hold up
I did right after seeing your response and was amazed at how the painted boards looked in the 2010 wood test update. Definitely going with paint, and painted as Tim (tclederman) and Mar-K says to. Unfortunately my truck sits outside 24/7/365, so the finish needs to be durable for when the camper shell isn't on the back. When I haul material from the bulk yard I'll make sure to put some plywood on top so the shovel doesn't scratch the finish as I get to the bottom of the pile.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
I was thinking 2 gallons of each at first, then dropped it to 3 gallons. The estimate I gave them is for 4 gallons. If big brand accepts the numbers I gave them, I should have enough to get an extra gallon if needed.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
But first, how many hours do you anticipate redoing a bed will take? In my estimate I didn't include labor, just materials, and he said to go ahead and provide the labor too. I'm asking about unbolting the strips and wheel wells to remove the boards, then prepping and painting and installing the new boards and strips. If you guys have a number throw it out there please. 8 foot fleetside with a little rust. If a nut doesn't turn or causes the bolt to spin, I have a nut splitter.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
As I recall, just the finish application and with one buddy helping with the assembly, it was about 24 hours. The truck bed was disassembled when I got it so no factual info to offer on that step. But, based on having to remove rusted nuts etc during other aspects of the trucks restoration, it seemed almost all involved loud, mystical four letter word incantations.
I think your paint / por quantities are higher than they need to be. I did long fleetside and used 1/2 gallon of house paint. It went on light after por. Por - i dont recall specifically but i dont think it took over 1 gallon. I applied multiple coats of both, but dont recall how many coats. That was 12 yrs ago and it is a strong finish. Gets hot in the sun, but that is the only negative.
~ HB 1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery 1962 Chevrolet C10 1962 Suburban
I think your paint / por quantities are higher than they need to be. I did long fleetside and used 1/2 gallon of house paint. It went on light after por. Por - i dont recall specifically but i dont think it took over 1 gallon. I applied multiple coats of both, but dont recall how many coats. That was 12 yrs ago and it is a strong finish. Gets hot in the sun, but that is the only negative.
I calculated 2 gallons of each, expecting to have some leftover. I broke down the process into minutes for each bolt for removal and it was around 5+ hours. 18 hours for sanding, sealing, painting, 2.57 hours for the 7 steps. 3 to 6 hours for installation. 27-30 hours Total. Breaking it all down that's what I got. So basically a weekend project after the boards are prepped and ready. Everyone was busy, so I decided to tackle it, and knowing the condition of the truck, I think the estimated time is right. Shocking, but after breaking it down, it is what it is.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
I’ve bought replacement panels, bed wood and fasteners from Mar-K. Everything was shipped perfectly packaged and undamages. Any questions I had were thoroughly answered via phone or in the Bed thread. The parts fit fit spot on. I will never hesitate ordering from them.
I’m still debating what to use finish the wood. I’m leaning toward clear coat on all 6 sides. I just like the look. Having done some woodworking though, I still haven’t read anything conclusive about durability/flexibility in the wood. I have examined beds though that were CCed and they looked good.. ......”Por me”. Haha.....
I used Minwax Helmsman spar urethane and I like the look. I chose this product because other users of this site (experienced woodworkers) had used it. I will leave it to you to use the search feature.
Can't tell you how long it lasts as it's only been a couple of years and the truck lives in a garage and hasn't been driven in the rain.