The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Door adjustment and weatherstripping

I have read the truck cab booklet and the tech tips here to figure out how to adjust my doors on my 51 3100 1/2 ton. I adjusted the passenger side door and it shuts perfectly.

Oh boy, I am frustrated with the driver side door.
Originally my driver side door would shut flush but rattle because the striker was damaged. It would also leak because the weatherstripping was gone between the hinges.
I pulled the door, removed the old weatherstripping and used weatherstripping removal spray to get rid of the glue. I then put the new weatherstripping on the door with the 3m black weatherstripping.
I then hung the door, adjusted and installed a replacement striker.

I have spent a few days adjusting the door but just can't get it right. The door shuts well, but I do have two issues. The weatherstripping is coming off a little between the hinges when I shut the door and the door is 1/8" out of flush from the striker side. If I move the door up it hits the cab, if I move the door down it hits the cab. If I move the door in it rips the weatherstripping off, if I move the door out I can't adjust the striker to close the door.

The booklet states enlarging body bolt holes or bending door hinges, but I'm little hesitant to try that.

Ugh, is there a secret to adjusting these doors?

Thanks,
JD

The biggest "secret" is to make ALL door adjustments before the weather strip is put on, including the latch and striker fitment.
All is not lost.
Did you rebuild the door hinges? If not, I would do that before proceeding any further.

The striker will often give you false readings as you make adjustments of the door. As the door is closed, the striker will push the door out of position without you realizing it. Remove the striker from the truck
Without the striker in the way, you will have more freedom to move the door wherever you need to. If the cowl is peeling off the weatherstrip, you can slot the hinge bolt holes at the hinge pillar to allow the leading edge of the door to extend out from the cowl. The Factory Repair Manual specifies "flush to 1/16" out from cowl to avoid contact with weatherstrip when opening door.
Another option to stop the weather strip from getting torn off by moving the door to the rear a little, if you have room at the rear door gap.
Once you solve the weatherstrip issue, and the door fits the door opening nicely, you will need to do what you must to make the latch and striker work to keep the door closed tight.
Is the striker a new reproduction? They can be problematic, but we can cross that bridge when we get to it.
I cannot stress enough how important it is remove the striker before attempting to adjust the door to the opening. (In case I didn't convince you already,)
Carl

Thanks for responding Carl.
I adjusted the door without the striker plate on. Once I mounted the striker plate, I had to move the door back towards the cowl to shut.

Adjusting the door without the weatherstripping is no bueno for me. I can't see a way to put the weatherstripping on with the door mounted and adjusted. If I adjust the door without the weatherstripping on it would be adjusted in a position that would rip the weatherstripping off when I mounted it.

The hinges are original and there is no play in them. What would be the reason to rebuild them?

I can get the door to shut without taking the weatherstripping off but once I put the striker plate the door doesn't clear the striker plate and the door hits the body at the rear of the door.
The truck cab booklet I mentioned above states the same thing as the Factory repair manual.

The striker I have is a reproduction. I will put the calipers on them tomorrow and see if the repro is thicker than the original.

"I adjusted the door without the striker plate on. Once I mounted the striker plate, I had to move the door back towards the cowl to shut."

What were your door gaps, front and back, before you put the striker back on? Close to the same distance? Did it result in solving the interference with the weather strip at the cowl? I yes to both, you can hit the area behind where the striker belongs with a hammer to give you up to 1/8" or so recess so your lock won't hit the striker. (I have done this. The striker hides the hammer marks.)

"The hinges are original and there is no play in them. What would be the reason to rebuild them?"

How many miles on this truck? That will correlate nicely with how many times the doors were opened and closed. They have a place to oil the pins, but no one ever did, it seems. Pick up on the door in the full open position and feel for any movement. There shouldn't be any to speak of.
Worn hinge pins raise their ugly heads once the weather strip has been installed. It pushes the door all over the place as you close the door.

"The striker I have is a reproduction. I will put the calipers on them tomorrow and see if the repro is thicker than the original."

I refuse to use reproduction strikers. I have welded new metal to used ones to restore their serviceability. If you can't do that, search eBay for NOS ones.

Carl