The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
6 members (55shaker, Wickedbass, FAST55, rfs56trk, Hotrod Lincoln, Hanks custodian), 57 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,065
Posts1,055,868
Members48,428
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1317117 07/09/2019 8:07 PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 9
O
New Guy
New Guy
O Offline
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 9
Hey everyone I’m hoping I can get a little help here. I have a 1950 3100 with a 216 in it that is seized. I’ve gotten all the linkages and everything detached in the engine bay. What else do I have? How many bolts connect the trans to bell housing? The transmission will stay in since it’s functioning and I want to keep the 3 on the tree. That leads me to my next question...do I need to wait around for a pressurized 235 or 261 or is there another option more readily available that can work with the stock rear and trans?
Thanks.

Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 9
O
New Guy
New Guy
O Offline
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 9
Looks like there are 4 bellhousing bolts but 2 and inside going into the trans. How do I get those off?

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,644
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,644
Don’t disconnect the bell housing. Motor and tranny will come out together. Best if front clip is removed to give you access, You’ll have to disconnect the torque tube before you pull the motor & tranny. Then there are 2 bolts under the front of the motor near the radiator and another 2 in the cross member. Lastly, there is a support plate under the tranny tail shaft where the U-joint is and there are 2 bolts there that you’ll have to remove. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump, battery cables, shifter linkages, oil pressure and temperature lines, stomp-starter linkage, and I believe the clutch and brake linkages that are attached to points on the motor. That should be all you’ll need to disconnect.

235’s and others are all nice replacements but come with additional challenges. Others more knowledgeable will advise you.

Edit...... sorry I just re-read your post and you want to leave the tranny in place. I haven’t got experience disconnecting the tranny from a motor that’s being pulled. I will allow others more experienced to advise how to do that.


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
You are trying to do this the hard way. Leaving the transmission and bell housing in place will make reinstalling the new engine even more difficult than removing the old one.
When the front clip (fenders, grill, radiator, etc) is left in place, it is easier to remove the transmission, clutch assembly, and flywheel first. Then you can get to the 2 sneaky bell housing bolts and remove it.
If the front clip is not in place, it is possible to remove the engine and transmission as one unit.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Another problem you are going to run into. You need to pull the clutch & flywheel to remove the bell housing. With the engine stuck this is going to be hard to do. If you get another engine try to get one with the bell housing with it.
George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
The two bottom trans' bolts are accessible through the bottom of the bellhousing after removing the 'tin' access cover.

If the engine is stuck, all the clutch and flywheel bolts are accessible through the retainer hole in the bellhousing with standard socket U-joint tools, don't be in a hurry, it can be done.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
Here's what I did on my 53 3600: Picked up entire front clip with engine hoist (left hood on), will need to disconnect wiring etc, Good thing I did this as I found broken spot welds on radiator support, fixed that. Leave trans under truck, just remove 4 bolts between bell housing and trans, and what ever replacement motor you use,( most go with a 235) you can reuse your original bell housing, flywheel, clutch etc from 216. Another issue is that if you use a 55 or later 235 will have a problem with their later style water pump but there is a great adaptor plate that solves that issue.
Make sure motor mounts are good, best to replace. Also should get a repair manual, a must have .


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0