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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,070 Posts1,055,892 Members48,428 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 9 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 9 | Hey everyone I’m hoping I can get a little help here. I have a 1950 3100 with a 216 in it that is seized. I’ve gotten all the linkages and everything detached in the engine bay. What else do I have? How many bolts connect the trans to bell housing? The transmission will stay in since it’s functioning and I want to keep the 3 on the tree. That leads me to my next question...do I need to wait around for a pressurized 235 or 261 or is there another option more readily available that can work with the stock rear and trans? Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 9 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 9 | Looks like there are 4 bellhousing bolts but 2 and inside going into the trans. How do I get those off? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | Don’t disconnect the bell housing. Motor and tranny will come out together. Best if front clip is removed to give you access, You’ll have to disconnect the torque tube before you pull the motor & tranny. Then there are 2 bolts under the front of the motor near the radiator and another 2 in the cross member. Lastly, there is a support plate under the tranny tail shaft where the U-joint is and there are 2 bolts there that you’ll have to remove. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump, battery cables, shifter linkages, oil pressure and temperature lines, stomp-starter linkage, and I believe the clutch and brake linkages that are attached to points on the motor. That should be all you’ll need to disconnect.
235’s and others are all nice replacements but come with additional challenges. Others more knowledgeable will advise you.
Edit...... sorry I just re-read your post and you want to leave the tranny in place. I haven’t got experience disconnecting the tranny from a motor that’s being pulled. I will allow others more experienced to advise how to do that.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | You are trying to do this the hard way. Leaving the transmission and bell housing in place will make reinstalling the new engine even more difficult than removing the old one. When the front clip (fenders, grill, radiator, etc) is left in place, it is easier to remove the transmission, clutch assembly, and flywheel first. Then you can get to the 2 sneaky bell housing bolts and remove it. If the front clip is not in place, it is possible to remove the engine and transmission as one unit. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Another problem you are going to run into. You need to pull the clutch & flywheel to remove the bell housing. With the engine stuck this is going to be hard to do. If you get another engine try to get one with the bell housing with it. George They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | The two bottom trans' bolts are accessible through the bottom of the bellhousing after removing the 'tin' access cover.
If the engine is stuck, all the clutch and flywheel bolts are accessible through the retainer hole in the bellhousing with standard socket U-joint tools, don't be in a hurry, it can be done.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | Here's what I did on my 53 3600: Picked up entire front clip with engine hoist (left hood on), will need to disconnect wiring etc, Good thing I did this as I found broken spot welds on radiator support, fixed that. Leave trans under truck, just remove 4 bolts between bell housing and trans, and what ever replacement motor you use,( most go with a 235) you can reuse your original bell housing, flywheel, clutch etc from 216. Another issue is that if you use a 55 or later 235 will have a problem with their later style water pump but there is a great adaptor plate that solves that issue. Make sure motor mounts are good, best to replace. Also should get a repair manual, a must have . | | |
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