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#131207 12/17/2002 2:02 PM
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I know we all have had this problem at some time in our projects. I bought an S10 4.11 rear end for my 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (not that it matters). As I was cleaning it up and removing the brake parts (to include the backing plate), I discovered when I try to remove the bolts holding the backplate to the axle flange, the bolt heads broke off (even after liberal doses of penetrating rust killing lubricants). Now, I have the bolt shaft stuck in all four holes. What is your thoughts on the best remedy to remove the bolt shafts? By the way, I do have about 1/2 inch of the shaft sticking out the other side.

#131208 12/17/2002 3:28 PM
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D'oh, not fun. I'd grind the broken ends smooth with the flange. Remove backing plate and you may have a little stub of bolt to grip with vice grips or a pipe wrench.
IF that doesn't work, center-punch the grind and drill for the correct size ez-out. If that doesn't work, you may be able to put a small pipe wrench on the 1/2" of stud, and screw it out the back. If that doesn't work, you may have to carefully drill it out, and re-tap with the correct size thread tap.

Hope that rear end has c-clip axles, cuz then at least you could get the axles out to access the damage better.

good luck

chip


Preaching the Hot Rod Gospel according to the 4-stroke apostles:

Suck, Squish, Fire and Fumes
#131209 12/17/2002 10:50 PM
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I think first I will heat the axle flange with a torch and use vice grips. Maybe even try locally cooling the broken end of the bolt with refrigerant.

Another option might be to drill out the hole and use a bolt and nut instead of just a bolt into the threaded axle flange.

#131210 12/18/2002 1:03 AM
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one other trick i found is to weld a nut over the shaft. Then while it is still hot from the weld try and unturn the bolt with a socket or wrench. I have had luck with this method. The trick is to get the weld strong enough, get the nut somewhat centred and also not try and weld the nut to anything else but the shaft. grin I've had a few shafts keep breaking off more and more with every new nut i welded on till it was flush down to the surrounding plate and i still was able to get it out this way! smile


*under construction* 1962 Chev truck: Bagged & bodydropped, shaved, custom made clear tailights & roll pan, custom made aluminum parts.
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#131211 12/19/2002 3:43 AM
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I have had good luck welding a thick washer to a broken off bolt, then weld a nut to the washer and use the nut to turn out the offending member.

I think this works better because it is easier to get better penetration into the bolt using a washer rather than trying to weld down inside a nut.


Remember 9-11-01--God Bless the USA
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1951 Chevy 1/2-ton Pickup truck
#131212 12/19/2002 3:27 PM
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Thanks Carl. I will try that.

Where do I buy a welder? LOL I am kidding. I have a MIG I can get my hands on.

#131213 12/22/2002 7:32 AM
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Its probably too late but have you tried the candle wax trick? Heat the bolt while applying wax to it.The wax will be drawn towards the heat so hopefully you have access to both ends.Then grab it with your vice grips. smile

#131214 12/22/2002 8:35 PM
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Richie,

One reason Racecarl's solution works well is that in the process of welding you are heating the carp out of the bolt. Next time you get to taking a bolt out like this you might also just try getting it hot and then quenching it with liberal doses of cold water - this will very likely save you the hassle of dealing with a broken bolt.

#131215 12/24/2002 10:23 PM
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Heating the bolt til the center just becomes molten or ready to weld to and then quenching with water does the trick.


Moderated by  Fibonachu, KCMongo 

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