Hi all, I have a dilemma with the Wards heater in the old truck and looking for suggestions. Its been unhooked for at least 15 years. I believe the blower motor gave out so they just abandoned it. Touched wires directly to battery but no joy. Fan spins freely by hand. Really can't foresee getting the giant nuts lose on the firewall to remove it without damaging the heater core or destroying it. I haven't seen any units similar to replace it with. If I could remove it without damage I look at trying to rebuild it. Any suggestions. Thanks
Soak the nuts with PB Blaster or Kroil several times over the course of 3-4 days. Then using the proper size wrench try to “Tighten” the nuts just a bit. Then hit it again with penetrating oil and start loosening the nuts. Bet they come off. Motors are available for the blower. ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Motor replacement is easy enough. I have a new 6 volt and 12 volt heater motor I am not using. May or may not fit. Not hard to measure. Cores can be soldered or replaced.
Following Martin's advise will get you there. Be patient. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, repeat....The metal these trucks were made with enable you to do that without rounding off the nut. Good luck!
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery 1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter
Thanks, been soaking with PBB for a week. Problem is - if you look closely at heater2 pic, there are 4 pieces showing.
The threaded center piece with the inlet/outlet pipes sticking out A circular piece next to the firewall that just gives added support to the firewall metal A nut tightened to the circular piece Another nut used to lock the 1st nut from turning
The nuts are 2" or better, far bigger than basic tools. Thinness of the nuts prevents using very thick tools. Pipe wrenches and channel locks are out. I'm to the point of getting out the dremmel w/cutting disk to try and cut and split the nut
Don't ya just love working on 70 year old stuff without destroying things.
Try a pencil point propane torch before you go slicing and dicing.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
To bad back in the day folks didn't spring for the factory heater! Instead (like with my '46) they bought an off brand (and later another requiring even more holes) and began boring holes all over the place vs using the GM holes, probably saved $1.25! Well at least I got to practice my welding skills.
