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#1306604 04/10/2019 12:49 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 480
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 480
I just discovered that I made another mistake in assembling my truck (53 chevy 3800). I found two pieces of metal that I was somehow convinced were fender braces for the rear fenders. But when I tried to figure out how they fit I realized that they were for the [/u]front[u] fenders! Of course the front fenders are already installed, so I have two questions.

Do I really need them? The front fenders seem awfully solid as they are.

If I need to install them, can I do it without removing the fenders? It was such a chore getting them on in the first place that I dread having to redo that.

And this might really be mistake number 122. I've lost count.

Tim


I am currently digging back in to a 1953 3800 (one ton) with a nine foot bed. I've owned it since 1979, and drove it until 1982 (or so). My wife got me involved in restoring it back in 2002, got the body removed and the frame redone, then things came up. Now I am retired and starting again. If anyone is interested I have photos on Imagur ( https://timwhiteblues.imgur.com/ ). I live way back in the woods in the Ozarks on 40 acres at the end of a 2 1/2 mile private road.

Tim
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 296
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 296
If they are bottom fender braces, they should be able to be installed without removing the fenders. When I bought my 53 1/2 ton, they were not on the truck. I bought a pair and installed them in 10 minutes. Helped pull in the lower part of the front fenders and brace them solidly back to the truck.


-Patrick
1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 / 4-speed / 4:11 / Commercial Red

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Living back in the woods on bumpy roads, you definitely need the braces. You could eventually crack the fenders. At any rate they will flex way more than you can test. I too was wondering why you have to remove the fenders to install?


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,289
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,289
Bluesman - I've attached what I think are the related pages from the Factory Assembly Manual.
Attachments
IMG_6877.JPG (41.97 KB, 202 downloads)
IMG_6878.JPG (39.61 KB, 200 downloads)
IMG_6879.JPG (34 KB, 201 downloads)
IMG_6880.JPG (34.46 KB, 202 downloads)
IMG_6881.JPG (32 KB, 197 downloads)

Last edited by Dusty53; 04/10/2019 7:08 PM.

Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 480
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 480
Yeah, the ones I neglected to install ar the ones near the front of the fender. Sort of flat curved pieces. It looks like the attach at three points: two bolts out at the lip of the fender, two bolts through the side of the inner fender, and two bolts through the top of the inner fender by the radiator support. I just remember what a chore it was to get those bolts to line up, and am not looking forward to having to remove and re install them. But I'll give it a shot with the finders in place.

On the other hand, Sunday I took the truck out for a (very) short drive, about 1/2 mile like to the end of the driveway and back. But it rand good, and everything worked fine, brakes, steering, clutch. I even (briefly) got it onto third gear! So progress is being made!

Tim


I am currently digging back in to a 1953 3800 (one ton) with a nine foot bed. I've owned it since 1979, and drove it until 1982 (or so). My wife got me involved in restoring it back in 2002, got the body removed and the frame redone, then things came up. Now I am retired and starting again. If anyone is interested I have photos on Imagur ( https://timwhiteblues.imgur.com/ ). I live way back in the woods in the Ozarks on 40 acres at the end of a 2 1/2 mile private road.

Tim
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
Given that the entire front clip is supported by only one tiny point under the radiator suppost in the center of the front frame crossmember, I would say that you need those brackets.
BTW lots of folks call those "horse collars". Without them, you will be putting undue stress on sheet metal to keep everything where it belongs for the long term.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,250
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,250
Let's make your life a little easier. Find yourself some pry bars like in the pictures. The small one will work best for the front fender brace. When aligning multiple metal pieces, if you can see any daylight in any of the holes, threaded or not, stick the pointy end in that hole. If you are creative, the pry bar will act like a third or fourth hand. It also won't hurt any of the threads.

So, once you have the fender brace, radiator support and fender in the general area they need to go, take your pry bar and put it in one of the upper (horizontal surface) holes. Wiggle it until those holes line up. Then stick a bolt in the hole closest to the pry bar as it will be lined up. If it isn't quite lined up, wiggle your pry bar. Thread a nut but don't tighten it. You can leave the pry bar there and use another pry bar inside the fender at the radiator support (vertical surface.) Line up the holes and put a bolt in the other hole closest to the second pry bar. Thread it but don't tighten it. Put your two fender opening bolts in. You could use a pry bar to line it up but it might not be necessary. After that, remove pry bars and put bolts in the empty hole. Before anything moves. If it does move, line up your holes again, then tighten the closest bolt. Remove the pry bar and you should have lined up holes for the next bolt. Same at the last position.

Reminds me of the old days of pinning steel and building towers. A very long time ago! Guess those early lessons never leave you! (Yeah, I'm up there somewhere!!)
Attachments
prybar1.jpg (22.88 KB, 152 downloads)
prybar2.jpg (7.27 KB, 152 downloads)
Blythe72.jpg (95.67 KB, 153 downloads)

Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 146
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 146
You should be able to attach that fender brace without removing any components, just the bolts on the core support. I removed and reinstalled mine when I discovered I'd mounted them on the outside of the fender lip instead of the inside. It was no big deal.

I like your pry bars Mark. I always just use Phillips screwdrivers to coax holes into alignment, but those would work much better.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,024
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,024
Roller head pry bars work well for prying a head off that's kind of stuck to the block also. Use the opposite end from the pointy one. Good tool to have in the box.

Last edited by klhansen; 04/11/2019 3:45 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,168
F
Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
F Offline
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,168
Mistake 122?.....Wow! You’re doing great! 😎


1970 Chevrolet C10
Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny
Follow the build in the Project Journal
1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually
"Ole Red Girl"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here
1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's
Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,250
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,250
Originally Posted by Jay Zed
I like your pry bars Mark. I always just use Phillips screwdrivers to coax holes into alignment, but those would work much better.

The taper makes the difference.


Moderated by  klhansen 

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