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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 108
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 108
Hi folks,

I just picked up a quite cherry 1950 235 out of a COE with only 5,000 miles on it--yes, just 5,000 miles on this pristine 235! I'm going to install the engine in my 1946 Fleetline Aerosedan. Given that this engine is so nice and barely broken in, I'm wondering if I should use synthetic lubricants to keep it in great shape for a very long time? I plan on using this car as my daily driver; weekday commute is 4 miles total and then of course there's the occasional other driving.

I did a search in the forums for "synthetic oil 216 235 babbitt" but did not come up with anything; I would greatly appreciate the input of my fellow bolters who are much more knowledgeable on engines than am I! Thanks!

-Tyler in Michigan

PS: I have a nice set of COE intake and exhaust manifolds, as well as the updraft carb, for sale!

Last edited by Tyler Watts; 03/29/2019 4:51 PM.

1953 3600 Pickup
1946 Fleetline Aerosedan
1948 Hudson Commodore
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
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Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
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Joined: Feb 2001
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W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
I would check further but I think all 235s were inset bearings. I was wrong. From Jim Merritt, a tip to help identify early babbitted 235's (optional motors in the pre-'54 Big

Last edited by WE b OLD; 03/29/2019 6:40 PM.

Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I am not a fan of using a full synthetic in these early motors. I don't have any first hand experience or failures of any kind (because I don't use them in my old motors, including my new builds). I have always been of the mind that the tolerances, specifications, and materials utilized for our old style motors were engineered with regular dino oil in mind. The synthetics, while superb for newer motors, might be too good for these old motors. Too slippery, not enough oil cushion, just a little on the incompatible side. With the cost of machine work and parts to rebuild one of our beloved early style motors, I just cant take a chance. That is my take on it anyway.

Last edited by Dragsix; 03/29/2019 8:07 PM.

Mike
Joined: Mar 2014
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,509
5000 miles? That's neat. Just my take, Tyler, but I'd use 30 weight Valvoline VR1 in the summer and in the winter maybe 20-50 Valvoline VR-1. I don't believe I'd go with the synthetic stuff. As others have said, I don't think the design will be quite compatible. Good luck!


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,305
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,305
These old engines were designed to run on oil which had chunks of dinosaurs in it.
The currently available 30 wt oil is an improvement of the 30 wt oil generally available in 1950.
By using what is available today is plenty of an upgrade in oil quality.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,871
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Posts: 29,871
It would be hard to beat Shell Rotella 30 weight. Definitely don't use one of the water-thin synthetics like 5W-30 or something similar. These engines need some cushioning between the parts, since the clearances are several times what's found in modern engines that run super-thin oils. If you want to have a little cold weather cranking help, try 15W-40 in the winter months.
Jerry


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T
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Alrighty, it looks pretty unanimous: high-quality conventional 30 weight it is! Thanks everyone!


1953 3600 Pickup
1946 Fleetline Aerosedan
1948 Hudson Commodore

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