The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Blue Flame or Not

Hey Bolters, I bought this block cause the guy said it was a Blueflame Six from a corvette. Can anyone tell me if this is actually a Blue Flame six or not. These are the numbers I have - Block casting: CON 4, L319 GM 3769716 Block S/N F0105J. Head Casting: B48 848 850 3836848 GM 16 CON 12.

THANKS

I could also use some information on the CAM for this engine. Would it be solid or hyd lifters. What would be a good replacement? I don't know what's in it yet and there are no lifters with the engine to give me a clue. Any help appreciated

Did the seller happen to be named Barnum? According to this site, those numbers don't have anything to do with a 235 engine for a Corvette.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm

The casting number cross-references to a 1960 or 61 Chevy truck 235:

http://www.inliners.org/becks/BCN2.html

That block would be drilled for an oil gallery for hydraulic lifters, but you'd need to do a degree and lift check on the cam to determine if the cam is solid or hydraulic. A 1960-61 truck would have had a solid lifter cam from the factory.
Jerry

So, the good news is that the block and head are good ones, in some ways preferable to the '53-'55 blocks, and the head supports the highest compression ratio (smallest combustion chamber) of any 235 head. Because of the hard service, watch the head for small cracks - should be checked. If the block and head cleanup and magnaflux OK, you did alright. Hopefully no premium paid because the seller misrepresented the engine parts.

You can use a stock grind 261 cam (solid lifter), which was what Chevy used in the Corvette 235 since the lift was higher. Or, you have your choice of aftermarket, solid lifter or hydraulic.

Or, if you are lucky, you can buy a cam made for the 53-55 Corvette 235, and use it in a non-Corvette 53-55st truck block (I have one in the 1954 235 truck block).

Okay, lots of good information from you guys. So I have a 60-61 truck engine that I can stick a 261 solid lifter cam in - whooaahhh!!! and for only $100 bucks. I love this forum

If you have a 1960/261 235/261, I think it had the same "hi lift "261" cam" in them?

Wait to hear from others - I'll try to remember to check a parts catalog.

The Elgin Industries E-293S cam is an exact copy of the Corvette 6 cylinder cam, except for a slightly different lash adjustment specification. If you're doing a buildup from a bare block, it would be wise to start with a new cam and lifters. The Elgin cam is much more reasonably priced than the "Corvette" cam some of the resto-ripoff places sell.

http://catalog.elginind.com/elgin/

Jerry

Hi Jerry, I went to the site you listed and see the cam. No Prices so I guess I have to get it from a reseller. Do I just use a set of lifters for a regular 235 with this cam? I didn';t see any lifter information listed with the cam on the website.

Hi Tim, I guess it's a 60 model from the earier posts. I figured I'd need a new cam and lifters anyway as I don't know what condition the existing cam is in and there are no lifters. Maybe I can find a set with lifters/cam/springs for a rebuild.

Call them- - - -they'll ship direct to you. I'm pretty sure they'll also have the right lifters. The last one I bought was around $100.00. Any set of stovebolt solid lifters will work with that cam. The older style "milk can" lifters require shorter pushrods than the ones from the late 1950's and newer.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry, I do just that!

A side note. When young people ask me what engine I have in my 54 iI tell them a Corvette. The first response is boy that must be fast. Then I open the hood and explain. BTW it is fast enough to keep up.

Craig,

I bought on of those Cams from Elgin and had to order it through an engine building in my area. Call Elgin and they will let you know who the closest seller is to you.

I contacted Elgin about some rocker arms a couple months ago, and was told the same thing- that I must order them from one of their distributors, that they don't sell directly to the public.

I've been doing business with the "Internal Engine Parts" warehouse in Nashville Tennessee for several years, and they distribute Elgin products. It looks like IEP is basically a southeastern USA company, but they definitely have a business relationship with Elgin. IEP also beats most of the online parts stores price-wise because they mostly cater to professional shops.

http://www.enginepartscenter.com/corporate.html

Jerry

Ok Guys I really appreciate all the Elgin information. I didn't buy the cam yet. I've hit a snag in my rebuild activity - a little issue with my heart. I was re-reading all the posts considering what I was going to do and I see that Jerry mentioned that the block should be cross drilled for lifters. Does that mean that I could use a hydraulic cam instead of a solid one. I haven't had a great deal of luck getting the valves adjusted in my truck (can't seem to get rid of a mis) and the thought of changing over to hydraulic sounds appealing. Since I'm on a health hold I'm in no hurry to tackle the rebuild anyway. If I can use a hydraulic cam what would be a good performance one and is there a difference in the push rods for the lifters.

Looking back I see drdoug said I could use a hydraulic one. Any recommendations?

Melling has two - their PN CCS-6 - which is a very mild, OE grind, or the slightly hotter CCS-5 which is the same advertised duration, but a bit more lift. Sealed Power (PN HT761) has hydraulic lifters, but others have reported issues with recent-build lifters, and I can't vouch for these specifically, other than to say I've had good luck with Sealed Power products over the years. I'm sure there are others...

RUN- - - - -do not walk away from a stovebolt with a hydraulic cam. They were temperamental with original equipment GM lifters 50-something years ago, and the current crop of overseas-made aftermarket lifters suck like a Dyson vacuum cleaner! Adjusting mechanical lifters is ridiculously easy if you get the engine up to full temperature first and do the adjustment with the engine stopped. Chasing a moving rocker arm around with a feeler gauge, a screwdriver, and a wrench takes three hands and a Cajun voodoo priestess from a "Swamp People" bayou chanting spells in some archaic language while you do it!
Jerry

Ok Gentlemen, I detect a slight difference of opinion on this issue I guess at this point I will opt for going back to the solid cam as I don't need to encounter more mechanical issues than I already have. It's great to hear both side of the issue though - I learn so much from you guys that I can't ever repay.. THANKS.

While I do enjoy the quietness of my hydraulic lifters in my '53 235, I am annoyed by the racket which I have to put up with of one stubborn lifter until the engine reaches operating temperature. I have tried to adjust it anywhere from 1/4 to 1 full turn with no change. Some day I will pull that lifter and see if I can see anything amiss inside of it. The engine has 20,000 miles on the rebuild, so I don't expect it to iron itself out before the next rebuild is due.
Carl

I packed up and threw the towel in with hydraulics as well. I had Delta Cam grind me a 261 solid lifter profile and have been 100% satisfied.

Although I mentioned the hydraulic lifter cams as an option, to be clear, I'm running a 261 reground to OE specs by Delta, also. Something satisfying about the periodic "bonding" with the engine. So, adjusting the valve train appeals to me... as well as a bit more performance.

The Elgin stuff looks very interesting, so I've noted that for future projects. Good info!

According to some preliminary measurements I've made, it looks like I might be able to make a 261 cam fit a 216 by changing the diameter of the bearing journals. I've got a junk 235 cam in the lathe right now to test the theory. If it will slip into an old block I have once the journals are reduced in size then I can do a timing and lift check to see if there might be any piston/valve problems.

Update- - - -with the cam bearing journals resized, a 54-up full oil pressure 235 big-journal cam fits a small-journal (splash-oiler) 235 block and the crankshaft clears everything. Since the 235 has a longer stroke shaft than a 216, logic suggests the same modification would work on a 216. I'll probably pick up a new Elgin 261 grind cam and incorporate it into the updated 216 I'm working on.

Now, wouldn't it be impressive if a 216 can be built to outperform a 235, either in HP, torque, or maybe both?
Jerry

Carl -- Maybe Jerry will let you borrow his Cajun voodoo priestess to put a kapu on that lifter...

I am sure he could have over this past weekend, except that I brought the wrong truck. DOH!
BTW, even though we all had a great time at Homecoming, we dearly missed you. I was a bit sad over your absence. Cosmo cried a little bit.
Carl