On my last project I ask my customer if I could have some scrap tubing for brake line on my 53 1/2 ton. They gave me two 200 foot rolls. Wil this work for my truck. I'm running Wilwood 12.88" disk 4 piston rear and 6 piston front. Here are the numbers on the tubing. Made in Canada, 0.250" XO .035" A ASTM A249/A209 ASME 5A-249 & BRS-75 TP 304/304L HT #SE00444 welded NDE 2018/02/27 22:10
That should work. Copper nickel is so much easier to work with, even if I had 200’ of stainless I wouldn’t want to use it on my truck. (I have used it before)
There's one word in that description that gives me a little pause- - - - -"welded". Are you willing to bet your life on that tubing, and/or the lives of the people who share the road with you? Most brake line tubing is "seamless". It might work OK, but be sure your liability insurance has a very high limit. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Good point Jerry, although that ASTM number corresponds to a tensile yeild strength of at least 25,000 psi. It's normally specified for instrument tubing, used for pneumatic instrumentation or relatively low pressure (~100 psi) liquid service. For comparison, copper nickel brake tubing is rated for 16-22,000 psi.
Last edited by klhansen; 03/15/20195:54 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Making double flared ends for stainless steel would be enough for me to balk on that tubing. I do use stainless steel brake lines on my trucks, but they were bought from a supplier and are already the right length, with all of the correct bends, with flared ends. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
After a few bends and flares get made in that stuff, what's the chance that- - - -just maybe- - - - -a slightly weak spot in a weld might be stressed by a bending tool or a flaring operation? "Free" could get terribly expensive in that case. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns..... 1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-Ton The GreenMachine In the Stovebolt Gallery
I am down to two 1954 3100 trucks: one for my Granddaughter and one for my Grandson. No Joke: they will be part of their inheritance, with a maintenance/repair trust fund.
I cried when I gave away the beautiful, fully-restored, 54/55 GMC 350 COE to my young friend who did my restoration painting in NY. Two rules for the COE - it stays in his family, and, I get to drive it when I visit them in NY.
Moderator: no offense will be taken if these last three posts are deleted, or moved to the Greasy Spoon..
