The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Carb Rebuilders, any out there anymore?

I have a pair of Carter YF’s that need some work. Work that is beyond my tools and knowledge. Years ago there were several folks to send these to but they have since retired.

So who’s out there?

That is an easy carburetor to rebuild. What kind of work are you thinking about?

Good rebuilding kits are readily available.

The carbs rarely need any machine work.

And as Carl stated above, easy carburetor to rebuild. The key is to get the correct parts in the rebuilding kit.

As far as tools are concerned:

(A) Straight-bladed screwdriver in two blade widths
(B) Ruler
(C) Homemade (a.k.a. poor-man's) ultrasonic cleaner (3 pound coffee can with a mixture of water and Dawn dishwater soap), and a heat source (a.k.a. stove) to boil the water.

As far as knowledge:

I believe my Granddaughter could rebuild one, and I know my Wife and Daughter could.

Go for it!

Jon.

I agree with Jon 100%. Not a difficult one to rebuild. Of 5 I checked late last summer, a couple had warped air horns, however. I didn't expect that, but it was not hard to remedy. Let me know if yours need help.

The biggest issue I have is where the throttle linkage connects to the base of the carb. That pivot has worn and leaks like crazy. That’s the area I’m looking for help on.

Probably a political problem, not a carburetor problem.

Find someone that has a digital caliper, and measure the clearance from the throttle shaft to the throttle body. If it exceeds 0.010 (10 thousanths) inch, then probably may be repaired with a new throttle shaft. New old stock shafts may be available, depending on which YF.

I don't remember ever doing a Carter YF with excessive clearance. Very rare.

Check this link: Fuel leak by throttle shaft

Jon.

"If it exceeds 0.010 (10 thousanths) inch, then probably may be repaired with a new throttle shaft."

Good morning Jon.

With a clearance approaching 0.010" does a lot of air come in along the throttle shaft due to engine vacuum making idle inconsistent and hard to adjust? I notice the Weber carbs have actual seals at the throttle shafts.

Depends entirely on how the engineers designed the carburetor. Carter designed for minimum 0.004~0.006. An additional 0.003-0.004 wear is normal. Remember that 0.010 cold will be less than 0.010 hot.

Don't know about Webers.

Jon

I had a telephone call when posting the above, and had to finish before I was finished.

Yar mentioned seals on Webers. I have done very few Webers, and since I am no longer restoring carbs, will never do another; so do not have a lot of knowledge about their construction.

I do know that Holley tried Teflon seals on throttle shafts on 4150's and 4160's for a few years, and then I believe they were discontinued. But the Teflon seals created a TREMENDOUS market for throttle shafts!

WHY?

The Teflon seals wore out in 20k~30k miles (we put the seals in our rebuilding kits for this reason). But to replace the seals, the throttle shafts must be removed. And do-it-yourselfers often would destroy the throttle shaft by twisting off all of the throttle plate screws. The old "law of unintended consequences". Some jobs are just best left to a professional.

Jon.

It would seem to me that some air entering through the minor gap at the throttle shaft would have been accounted for when the carburetor was designed.
As the shaft wears somewhat (minor wear), would adjusting the mixture screw address the minor increase of air leaking past the shaft? I am talking about minor wear, not wallered out.
(Jon, you are from Missouri. You know dag gum well "wallered" is a real word. )
Carl

Larry Isgro if you are still looking for someone. Long time advertiser in Hemmimgs, a real gentleman who has been at this for years. Very old school, no website. Call first and talk to mr. Isgro.

https://www.yellowpages.com/wantagh-ny/mip/larry-isgro-carburetors-inc-2203862

Larry Isgro (as shown in his website URL)

Excellent advice Mike. No BS from Larry. He does good/fast work and “stands behind it”.

He has done A-D and ND Chevrolet and GMC carburetors for me.

I've had great luck with Larry Isgro in the past. I'd certainly try him again.

There is a fellow - Hal Houghton - in upstate NY (Schenectady) who does rebuilds, up to and including restoration quality. I've not used his services, but I have used several of his fuel pump kits which are high quality, and I've chatted with him quite a bit. He's another one of us who has been around these engines and their components for 50+ years. While I don't have direct experience with his rebuilds, he seems a good resource. Check out Classic Preservation Co if interested.

"Depends entirely on how the engineers designed the carburetor. Carter designed for minimum 0.004~0.006. An additional 0.003-0.004 wear is normal. Remember that 0.010 cold will be less than 0.010 hot."

Jon,

Thanks very much for explaining that. I've put bushings in some of the carburetors I've worked on to minimize the throttle shaft gap "Because I can". After doing that it seemed like the carburetors responded more positively to idle mixture adjustment.

What I've just learned from you is that my perceived "improvement" is probably yet another example of the placebo effect. Or said another way "I wouldn't have seen it if I hadn't believed it".

Had a great chat with Larry this afternoon. It has been a while since I've spoken to him.

Glad he is still around!

Ray - the pre-1968 carburetors were less responsive to adjustments in the idle mixture screw(s).

With the beginning of Federal smog emission requirements in 1968 (California was 1966), most of the carburetor manufacturers changed the taper on the idle mixture screw. Take a look at a screw from the 1970's, and compare the taper to the 1950's. The longer taper smog screws are much more responsive, and one can obtain a more consistent idle with these longer tapered screws. Of course, the manufacturer changed the taper for easier adjustment for smog emissions.

Jon.