Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,080 Posts1,055,956 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 | This idea won’t please everyone, but this method was perfect for my hood, hinges and hood latch. My 1963 is crusty on the outside and will likely stay crusty. I just completed an engine swap and felt that to do the job right, I needed to restore the engine bay as well. So here is a small contribution from my BLOG showing how I made sure all the parts aligned well during reassembly. LINK HERE | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | Nice! I do the same thing for doors. For each hinge, I drill one hole through the door on the inside, through the hinge strap and through the sheet metal on the other side of the hinge strap. Like Lugnutz indicates, it is important to use a sharp bit. A dull one or a poorly centered sharpened bit will walk and not make a precise hole. I splurge and buy a high quality bit just for this work. If a purist has a problem with a few extra holes, that is his prerogative. Not a problem at all with me. He can have "fun" battling with his truck. He might need to avoid the hits from a show judge. He would not find my holes because the door panel covers them. However I am now screwed, since tclederman is now privy to my cheating.  Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 |   as I have always hummed, "do what you like" | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 | 52Carl, Thanks for the affirmation. Some of the Facebook “dudes” are claiming they spray rattle can around the bolt head to mark where to line it up. I’m not proud, but I can’t imagine what that looks like after reassembly. Maybe they use tempra finger paint like in kindergarten and then wash it off.  | | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 678 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 678 | You're a genius! My method has always involved hurriedly tearing everything apart, throwing it loose in a pile, then painstakingly adjusting it back together months later after I've forgotten how everything goes.
1951 Chevy Panel Truck
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Jay, as usual, nice job.......and to add to this conversation sometimes I drill those 1/8" holes and put a "roll pin" in it and leave it even after reinstalling the hinge or other stuff.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | Jay, as usual, nice job.......and to add to this conversation sometimes I drill those 1/8" holes and put a "roll pin" in it and leave it even after reinstalling the hinge or other stuff. That's another great idea, Alvin. That way you can be absolutely certain that nothing shifted while tightening up bolts. Now I feel like I need to take all of my trucks apart and redo all of this. Well, maybe not... Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 678 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 678 | Jay, as usual, nice job.......and to add to this conversation sometimes I drill those 1/8" holes and put a "roll pin" in it and leave it even after reinstalling the hinge or other stuff. Or maybe a screw or pop rivet for positive hold...
1951 Chevy Panel Truck
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 16 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 16 | Well son of a....I wish I'd have read this two weeks ago before I started tearing the front end apart on my '49. Everything closed perfectly on it before I took it off. Great idea!
Matt M.
'49 Chevy 3100 5 Window (Project, started Feb 2019)
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,002 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,002 | Good idea Jay...and nice job on the resto!!!
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | That’s just awesome! What a great way to get everything back exactly where it belongs! Thanks for posting the pics and video too.
Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 189 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 189 | I remember the probably Hotrod magazine tip suggestion for drilling a 1/8in hole in hood hinges back when I pulled my first hood in 1972, which was how you lined up a Hurst shifter too with a 3/16 inch rod.
Last edited by 4100 Fire Truck; 03/01/2019 11:25 PM.
| | |
|
|
