The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1950 3600 / 8 lug / will these wheels fit?

I have a 1950 3600 with it's original split rims and bias ply tires.

I picked up a set of 16 inch steel wheels(for nothing) that are 8 lug 16 inch x 6.5 inch rated at 3000 lbs and not to exceed 80 PSI. I think they came off a Chevy pickup.

I will try them with the tires that are on them (235 something something....)

My plan is IF they fit, I will lose the tires, clean and paint the wheels and put some radials on them and keep the original tires/wheels.

I wonder how it will ride with radials?

Anyway, can someone tell me the following:

1) Will they fit?
2) What size tire can I put on them? (I prefer narrow and tall to get some better road gear.

Thanks for the reply and comments.

pics??

No pics. I can take some tomorrow, but really wanted to get an idea if anyone used 16 inch wheels on a 50 3600?

Thanks

You might have trouble with the 16" wheels in the front rubbing on the steering. The offset in the rim may make the tire run more inboard than it should. I had that trouble on my 59 3800. 16.5" rims work fine, but the 16" rims I tried did not.

I run similar wheels on my truck. The back will fit perfect the front will interfere. I built my own tie-rod and modified my steering gear to clear. I love the radials and the way they ride.
My wheels came off a 1991 Suburban 3/4-ton.

Thanks Brad. What size tire did you wind up using? Next weekend I will try the fronts on for size and see what they hit. I would like to use a narrow/tall tire.



David.

The offset of the mounting surface is just as important as the width.

The 16" x 6.5" rims on the rear of my '48 will not work on the front because the tie rod end rubs.

I have 6" rims on the front. The inside mounting surface is setback 3 3/4 in. from the tire bead towards the center of the truck.

I use 235-85R16 tires (Michelin highway treads). I have only 1/8" clearance with the tie rod ends but they have never rubbed.

Thank you Wally. I've been through your neck of the woods many times. Very nice. I also like your 48. Gives me some needed inspiration.

Nice looking truck, David.

This is stamped on my front rims.

16x6K
CAP 3045 LBS, 80 PSI, DOT T
5 12 21
Rockwell Fumagalli, Made in Brazil

Hope this helps.

I have 16 x 6.5T DOT T CAP 3000lbs max 80PSI so very similar. I have a feeling the offset it way too much and they will stick in too much. I measured at least 4 inches offset, maybe 4.5 ??

The old tires that are on there now are P235/85 R16.

Here's a few pics.

Wheels front side

Wheel back side

Day at beach.. Maybe 60 degrees and sunny. Not bad for January along the Oregon coast.

Those will not work, they are from an '88 or newer pickup or '92 or newer Suburban. You are correct about the backspacing.
Just a side note, I noticed the term "offset" being used. While not totally incorrect, the correct erm would be "backspace". Offset is the dimension, +/-, from the wheel centerline. Backspace would be the measurement from the wheel mounting surface to outer edge of the inside of the wheel. Offset can be affected by the combination of backspace and wheel width.

Hey back with a chance to post:
The tire size I went with is LT215/85 R-16 E1 BFG Commercial TA's I also made my own adjustable steering arm so I could center the steering wheel.
I was able to use 1/2 ton clips sold by vendors to use the standard 3/4-ton caps.

Thanks Brad. I'll take a few pics when I try the wheels and post them...

Brad. Nice tie rod ends. I am also trying to go to the 16x6 8 lug rims. Where did you find those tie rod ends? they look like they would fit the orig 59 bar I have . Are They a bolt in project? Did you make the steering rod from parts? I have asked at the local speed shops for that kind of work and found no one that can do it.

I hesitate to use Heim joints for critical stuff like steering because they don't last as long as a genuine ball joint. most all of them aren't sealed and many don't have grease fittings.
I know many race and off road guys use them but they have different expectations of service live than we have for a regular on the road vehicle.

They also use straight bolts to attach them and don't fit in steering components with a tapered shank/bolt. That seems a lot less secure than how normal ball joints attach.

Grigg

I have some 16x6.5 Ford rims, they fit, but barely any clearance.

Okay here is to set some things straight. I ordered my Heim joints and associated parts from a large racing/street rod shop these are engineered (sealed high-quality teflon) suspension pieces not off the shelf at the local hardware store. I replaced 60 year old sub-standard parts with new. I machined out my tapers for precise fits everywhere. I have zero issues with my truck it tracks true and straight and is a one-hander on the wheel. My truck has the original rear-end, I drive it 45-50 mph on nice sunny days and I have zero concerns. To all reading do exactly to your own truck as you would wish, opinions as they say are like * everybody has them. The original tie-rod ends were from Jim Carter and cleared by about 1/8" inch (on a a new factory length bar) that is why I kept experimenting (novel concept) until I found the ultimate solution for ME! If someone wants to PM me for further details please do so, I am done on this one.

Thanks for the info! I wasn't trying to ruffle any feathers.
Sounds like you've done your homework and are satisfied with your solution, that's great.
As you know not everyone will take the same care. Used improperly even the best components could be a bad idea and from what I've seen many folks expect more from Heim joints than they're good for. That's why I brought it up.

By the books we shouldn't be modifying any aspect of our steering systems... not that it stops us but if we're still going to we better get it right and be safe.

Grigg

I have a 1956 3600 chevy and am having a terrible time finding rims that clear the front steering rod. How did you modify your steering rod?