Hello, I just finished replacing all the brake hardware on my 1954 3100 truck, bled brakes , adjusted and drove around the block. I heard a squealing when turning. Pulled back in garage and noticed both hub dust covers are gone, and hubs hot. Jacked up, and noticed the hubs are loose. After removing the left tire and kotter pin, I could rotate the castle nut almost a 1/4 turn. Oh crap. I removed the castle nut, washer. and the outer bearing balls fell out. Left outer bearing shot. Pulled right side - same hub slop. Bearing is still in tact. I will replace the bearings, but now I'm questioning the installation / bearing preload procedure. I have done this in the past with no problems. Hand rotate the hub while tightening down the castle nut until hub stops rotating, then back off the next kotter pin slot. They both had a slight drag. I installed the hub, outer bearing race, then the bearing with small end toward race, washer, then nut.
How many folks follow the manual? Tighten spindle nut to 33 ft. pounds, while rotating by hand with tire off, then back off spindle nut to next hole for kotter pin. This seems too tight - but obviously I put together too loose. The hub should still spin freely per the manual.
I've followed the manual in the past, and the procedure seems to work fine.
FWIW, I also have a roller bearing kit to install, just haven't gotten to it yet. Seems like a very good update to consider while you are replacing bearings, anyway.
Must be pretty disappointing to go thru all that work and have that happen. I attempt to keep my truck as stock appearing as possible. But upgrades that aren't visible, like roller bearings instead of balls just makes sense to me. I think using the preload method you used you over tightened rather than too loose on the bearings. My method may not be exactly correct either but I have maintained my small personal fleet of cars, trucks, tractors, motorcycles, and trailers for nearly 60 years without a bearing failure. I also tighten the castle nut until the wheel won't turn (I leave the tire on) but then completely loosen it and retighten until the slightest drag is felt. I grab the tire on the outer edges and make sure there is no play when attempting to rock the tire back and forth.
It was quite disappointing to hear the squeal. But - it's back in the garage and back on jack stands. Good news it's not a daily driver so I have time. When I put the tire on I noticed just a little bit of play - must have been too much. So I don't think they were too tight - but too loose. I have the great opportunity to try try this again.
Hello, I just finished replacing all the brake hardware on my 1954 3100 truck, bled brakes , adjusted and drove around the block. I heard a squealing when turning. Pulled back in garage and noticed both hub dust covers are gone, and hubs hot. Jacked up, and noticed the hubs are loose. After removing the left tire and kotter pin, I could rotate the castle nut almost a 1/4 turn. Oh crap. I removed the castle nut, washer. and the outer bearing balls fell out. Left outer bearing shot. Pulled right side - same hub slop. Bearing is still in tact. I will replace the bearings, but now I'm questioning the installation / bearing preload procedure. I have done this in the past with no problems. Hand rotate the hub while tightening down the castle nut until hub stops rotating, then back off the next kotter pin slot. They both had a slight drag. I installed the hub, outer bearing race, then the bearing with small end toward race, washer, then nut.
How many folks follow the manual? Tighten spindle nut to 33 ft. pounds, while rotating by hand with tire off, then back off spindle nut to next hole for kotter pin. This seems too tight - but obviously I put together too loose. The hub should still spin freely per the manual.
If I remember correctly, it's not just back off to the next hole. There are vertical and horizontal cotter pin holes, and you have to back off at least a certain amount of turn.
"How many folks follow the manual? Tighten spindle nut to 33 ft. pounds, while rotating by hand with tire off, then back off spindle nut to next hole for kotter pin. This seems too tight - but obviously I put together too loose. The hub should still spin freely per the manual."
Dart,
The answer to that question is that some people use manual-recommended procedure and some do not. The ones who don't think they know more than the engineers who designed the system in question, in this case bearings. In addition to the vehicle service manual, bearing service is well described in publications by the bearing manufacturers.
I'm a geologist, not a professional mechanic. But I have a 1971 Dodge van that I bought new. I have serviced the front wheel bearings at the shop manual recommended 24,000 mile intervals and adjusted them according to the shop manual procedure. That van now has a little over 362,000 miles on it and the front wheel bearings still look like new parts. A few grease seals have worn out over the decades but the bearings still look perfect.
My "Stovebolt" is a restored '36 Chevy PU. It has original type ball bearings like yours adjusted per shop manual procedure. In about 50,000 miles of driving as a daily driver "rat rod" and another about 13,000 miles after restoration the ball bearings are having no issues.
So there is nothing wrong with ball bearings or factory service recommendations in my experience. I hope this helps.
Your first photo shows the bearing installed backwards. The inner race should be inserted into the larger diameter of the sheet metal bearing cage. That's probably why they chose to make tapered roller bearings permanently assembled. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Why anyone would not use the manufacturer's recommendation for adjusting wheel bearings is beyond me. The instructions are very clear with pictures and make perfect sense. (Bear with me. I seem to be channeling Denny Graham for some weird reason ) . Tightening until the wheel stops turning is far from a precise procedure. There are too many variables (moving parts) involved which will cause the wheel to stop turning before the bearing preload is reached. Conversely, tightening to 33 ft. pounds will establish a specific preload, while backing the nut to a specified position as described in the Manual will give you a precise amount of free play. Carl
Last edited by 52Carl; 01/24/201911:54 PM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Jerry - you are correct. Upon further investigation, I installed them backwards. The wide opening needs to go on the spindle which allows the balls to ride in the race. If you install the other way, the metal cage hits the race causing squealing and heat. I could have sworn this is how they came apart. I just bought this truck, and it was missing the kotter pins on the front castle nuts.
I'm kind of surprised nobody else caught that little detail- - - - - -maybe spending 60-something years as a professional mechanic has something to do with it, instead of being an expert at reading a service manual. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Good guess/analysis/observation - the first two photos in the first post are not clear as to the installed orientation Each photo gives the impression of a different orientation.
Theres no mention as to whether the bearings were properly hand packed with grease. They wont last long without . Make sure its heavy wheel bearing grease, not chassis grease.
OK - the saga continues. I received the new outer front wheel bearings. I tapped the first outer race out and it looks like it was installed backwards. But - If I tap in the outer race as I think it should go, it captures the outer bearing. I always remember the outer bearing coming out after the nut and washer is removed. I installed one this way and torqued to 33ft pounds while rotating, then backed off the the next kotter pin hole. Seems ok. I tried tapping in the other side outer race, and it will not go. I damaged the balls on the new outer bearing and need to buy a new one. Looks like some one tried to install a race crooked and buggered up the surface. I have used 600 grit to clean it up.
So the question is: Do I install the outer race so that the bearing is captured, or free to come out the front? If the outer race is installed so the outer bearing can come out, this looks like it's backwards, and will not work with the inner race.
The inner race has to go in last. Think about it as if they were tapered roller bearings. The outer race goes in with the larger diameter of the taper facing out. Your problem may be that the ball cage was inserted backward and it rubbed on the inner race. Your pic #2 above shows the races in the correct orientation, with the outer race going into the hub from left to right. I can't tell from that pic if the ball cage is in correctly though. In your pic #1, the ball cage larger diameter is to the left, but should go in with the small diameter first.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Kevin., .I think you pointed out something that makes total sense. Currently I'm sliding the small inner race onto the spindle first, then the hub and bearing as this is how it came apart. You are saying install the outer race as I found it, grease and place the bearing in the outer race, THEN slide the small inner race last, washer, nut. This now make more sense. I think the small inner race was placed incorrectly - which is throwing me off!
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