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#1295317 01/18/2019 6:47 PM
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 65
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 65
Hi guys while I wait for my rear drums so I can finish my brakes I decided to change the rear shackles. I was able to get the old ones out by heating them up and pounding them out. So my question is how do I get the new ones in? Is there a press type tool for this task or some other way? I didn’t realize the new ones would be so tight! Thanks

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Some of us use a puller made from bits and pieces from the hardware store. There may be examples in past posts.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
Check out this material from Pre '68 Dave. I used his method and it worked like a charm!

Chev 235 guy

Good luck!


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
I had contrarian parts. That bolt bent for me.

Here is the set-up that I used.

Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 65
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 65
Thanks for the advice, I was able to get one new one in before the bolt in my setup (which is a combination of the ideas you guys gave) broke. I think I got it figured out, I need a stronger bolt! Thanks for the help! I’ll post a pic of my setup when I get back to it.

Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 65
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 65
Hi guys I got my shackles on and in place but was wondering if anyone knows what the bolt should be torqued too? The new shackles have a rubber washer and those seem to crush pretty easy and I don’t want to over tighten. Thanks

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
If I remember correctly, where there are threaded shackle pins, the nuts are self locking. So the idea would be to snug the nuts up until the rubber washers are acting as seals.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
The shop manual says to 'tighten securely'.

1/2 TON REAR SPRING


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Originally Posted by HandyAndy
The shop manual says to 'tighten securely'.
That probably doesn't fall into the category of "torque till it breaks and back off a half turn" wink


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
If one uses the original shackle arms, you tighten them just before they start to get looser.
If the shackle arms are after market, you tighten them just before the arms bend. They are not make of the correct steel.

Last edited by 52Carl; 01/29/2019 3:20 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 65
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 65
Thanks guys


Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

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