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| | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 65 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 65 | Hi guys while I wait for my rear drums so I can finish my brakes I decided to change the rear shackles. I was able to get the old ones out by heating them up and pounding them out. So my question is how do I get the new ones in? Is there a press type tool for this task or some other way? I didn’t realize the new ones would be so tight! Thanks | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Some of us use a puller made from bits and pieces from the hardware store. There may be examples in past posts. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 786 Former BMW Rider | | Former BMW Rider Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 786 | Check out this material from Pre '68 Dave. I used his method and it worked like a charm! Chev 235 guyGood luck! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I had contrarian parts. That bolt bent for me. Here is the set-up that I used. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 65 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 65 | Thanks for the advice, I was able to get one new one in before the bolt in my setup (which is a combination of the ideas you guys gave) broke. I think I got it figured out, I need a stronger bolt! Thanks for the help! I’ll post a pic of my setup when I get back to it. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 65 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 65 | Hi guys I got my shackles on and in place but was wondering if anyone knows what the bolt should be torqued too? The new shackles have a rubber washer and those seem to crush pretty easy and I don’t want to over tighten. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | If I remember correctly, where there are threaded shackle pins, the nuts are self locking. So the idea would be to snug the nuts up until the rubber washers are acting as seals. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 786 Former BMW Rider | | Former BMW Rider Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 786 | The shop manual says to 'tighten securely'. 1/2 TON REAR SPRING | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,054 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,054 | The shop manual says to 'tighten securely'. That probably doesn't fall into the category of "torque till it breaks and back off a half turn" 
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | If one uses the original shackle arms, you tighten them just before they start to get looser.
If the shackle arms are after market, you tighten them just before the arms bend. They are not make of the correct steel.
Last edited by 52Carl; 01/29/2019 3:20 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 65 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 65 | | | |
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