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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,074 Posts1,055,913 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | Going to ask a somewhat stupid question, but I'll ask it anyway....
9+ years ago when I disassembled my engine I bagged and tagged all the parts...after 9+ years, the bags disintegrated and became hard to read. The bolts that mount the bellhousing to a 216 engine...the 4 internal and the 2 exposed. What is the size, grade, length, thread on these?
Also, same information on the bolts for the rear motor mounts to mount to the frame, along with any associated hardware.
I have searched the forum and the manual but can't seem to find the specs for the bolts. I determined the motor mount bolts are 3/8", but want to know what is the right size/grade, and what extra washers are necessary. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,777 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,777 | The bellhousing bolts are 7/16-14, AKA 7/16 Standard thread or 7/16 UNC. Grade 5 bolts should be sufficient, with split lock washers and no flat washers needed. As long as you get 1/2" or slightly more thread engagement after the thread enters the block you'll be good to go. 50-60 ft/lbs. of torque is normal for that size of bolt. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | thanks! had to crank it pretty hard but it tightened up. guess that is what led me to ask the question to begin with. First of many "stupid" questions. just want to do this right. Tomorrow night I guess I'll mount the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate up. Preparing to drop the engine in the frame.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 123 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 123 | I believe you need to use some sealant on the flywheel bolts to keep crankcase oil from leaking out.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I believe you need to use some sealant on the flywheel bolts to keep crankcase oil from leaking out.
Joe What size/year engine? I do not recall reading that instruction in a Shop Manual for a 216/235/261? http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0634.htmWe'll hear from a pro (hopefully). | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,777 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,777 | The flywheel bolt holes in the crankshaft hub go all the way through to the crankcase, but unless you insist on using water-thin synthetic motor oil, it's not likely a properly-torqued bolt would allow any leakage. I would suggest using full-circle star-type lock washers on the flywheel bolts instead of split-style locks, however. A little dab of brush-on Permatex Super 300 wouldn't hurt- - - -it's a good thread lube as well as a sealer. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | |
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