The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 52 brake adjustment

I've searched and can't find the exact answer to my question. Hope you guys can help. I have a completely stock, '52 Chevy, 3100. Noticed that I have quite a bit of brake pedal travel, and did some research and learned that the brakes must be adjusted manually. I've never had the drums off the back (owned the truck five years), so figured it might be time for a brake rebuild. Got the drums off, and there is still a good bit of shoe and no sign of fluid leakage, so just figured an adjustment would be in order. The problem is, how in the heck do you turn that star adjuster? Everything turns, nothing is seized (I soaked in Kroil for a couple of days). I can loosen the brakes fairly easily, but tightening is almost impossible. Even with the drums removed, and prying the spring that prevents starwheel movement up out of the way, that thing will barely tighten. When I put on the drums and try to tighten through the hole in the backing plate, there is absolutely NO WAY. Sure, I don't have the special GM tool that the shop manual calls for. But, I have tightened more than one set of drum brakes with a screwdriver. What am I missing here? Is it really as easy as the manual says? I have managed to tighten the back brakes by turning a little bit, putting on the drum and if it loose tighten a little more, try again, etc., and keep doing this until I can barely get that drum to go on. I do not think I should have to do this on the front brakes. Help please?

You are right , it should not be that hard to do.

Since you are now skilled at removing the drum , I suggest you pop the brake return springs off , release the anti rattle clips and let the shoes go free .

Now you can take the adjuster off the wheel cyl and disassemble it , clean the threads up , a little anti seize on the threads then put it all back together .

Should be good to go then .

Once you have the adjuster threads freed up, do the adjustment the right way. With the tire and wheel bolted on, tighten the brakes until there is a firm drag when the wheel is turned in a forward direction. Don't adjust it tight enough to lock the wheel completely. Then back off the adjuster screw one turn- - - -that's usually 10 notches on the adjuster wheel, but count the teeth to be sure. Adjusting screws for self-adjusting brakes have fine teeth, usually 20 instead of 10. Don't worry about drag- - - -once the adjustment is loosened it's possible for the shoe assembly to shift and drag a little even when it's adjusted properly. The brakes will self center the first time they're applied. Adjust the other three wheels the same way and drive on!
Jerry

Besides cleaning & lubing the threaded portion, take the swivel part off the other end of the adjuster & put some lube in it. That end is often froze to the cyl. & keeps the adj. from turning.
When these brakes are right the pedal barely goes down. You just apply pressure to it.
It is not necessary to remove all the springs to remove the adjuster. Just remove the adj. screw spring & spread the shoes out a little.
George

That brake pedal barely going down is what I always shoot for. Gives you more time before you have to adjust them again. Unfortunately I am finding it more difficult to even hoist my old leg up that high let alone develop any leverage from the semi-fetal position this places on my long legs. I am thinking of backing off the adjusters a little more to at least get some travel before any real force is required.

brakes that are adjusted too tight when cold will drag once they heat up to normal operating temperature after driving a few blocks. I'd rather have a little more pedal travel to begin with than risk overheating the brakes from draggy shoes.
Jerry