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Joined: Jun 2018
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The title pretty much says it all. I need to replace the inner and outer cowls (and brace) on my '50 and want to preserve the side vent. I have not seen replacement panels for this, so I am assuming that mean DIY fabrication required. Wondering how to and if anyone has any pics of been there and done that?


Jason

Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.)

1950 Chevy 3100

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Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
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Not quite. On the left/drivers side of the truck for '49 and '50s they had side vent in that piece (both inside and outside panels) like seen here. I have not been able to find replacement panels with this vent in it.


Jason

Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.)

1950 Chevy 3100

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Is your truck rusted as high as the vent door. There is the flat repair panel for the year and you can cut out the openning. I would imagine if rusted that high you could see if someone has a parts truck and is willing to cut out the piece for you then use the lower repair piece for the rest.


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
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Yeah, it is pretty gnarly. Here is a pic after sandblasting. When I took the front end apart, the front fenders had actually been brazed to the cowls on both sides they were so far gone.

Drivers side

Last edited by wilsjay; 11/20/2018 6:22 PM.

Jason

Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.)

1950 Chevy 3100

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At least the vent door and around vent the door is intact. You could but weld the short piece if it will reach to the bottom of the vent. Although some of the full cowl pannels are about the same price as a short one. That way you will have the upper piece were the fender bolts to as well. My truck needs repair along the bolt line were the fenders bolt on as well there is a little bump along that line making it difficult to repair but the fender welting is there and will cover were the repair is.

Last edited by KEVINSKI; 11/20/2018 11:12 PM.

1954 Canadian GMC 9300
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Here are some pictures of how I did it. On the inside you need to cut the inside carefully as the slot for the handle is also not reproduced in the patches. There are quite a few of both sides to view, good luck!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129088077/in/album-72157631867396207/

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@Brad - WOW! That looks awesome. Can't thank you enough for sending that. I will study those photos for hours I can assure you! I could also probably bug you with 200 questions along the way if you don't mind! My first set of questions:

1. Looks like the same cab repairs I have to make. What order did you do them in? Floors, Rockers, Rear cab corners inner to outer, then front cab cowls inner to outer?
2. Do the rocker panels weld to the rear inner cab corners and does the inner and outer rear corners weld to each other on the bottom edge? Mine are too far gone to tell!
3. What kind of welder did you use and what did you use to grind the welds down to dress them?
4. Did you use any seam sealer anywhere before you painted/undercoated?
5. Did you brace the door openings at all?


Jason

Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.)

1950 Chevy 3100

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No problem on questions. So I did one side at a time with cab on the mounts. Removed the floor replaced and welded in for a solid mount to start on the rest. I then cut my way in and welded my way out. My rockers are original so no changes there, On my corners the inners only needed light patching, so just the outers were replaced. I TIG welded all my seams so they needed very little in the way of sanding or prep, I have a really old but fantastic Ingersoll-Rand air 45 deg., grinder/cutter that I used on most removal and initial prep for fine sanding (it fits in my palm). I used seam sealer and undercoat liberally. The FAM (Factory Assembly Manual) details where originally it was applied if that is a concern? I applied mine so I would never have to worry about it again. I did not brace my door openings, I was careful on my fit and how and where I cut so it was never an issue for me. However when I started fitting the outer cowls I matched them for fit and alignment with the doors hung on freshly rebuilt hinges. I did this work in the 2006/2007 time period, at that time the panels needed significant coaxing for fit, I do not know if that aspect has improved?

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I have the factory assembly manual. Did not realize it addressed the panels for welding purposes/seam sealer kind of stuff. I thought it was just basically setting body to frame and aligning fenders/hood kind of stuff and actually had not opened it up yet. Good to know. I have a 110v 140a Hobart MIG wire welder with gas. Being a newbie I am always afraid I am starting with the wrong tools/equip. I have a dewalt electric angle grinder, air cut off wheel grinder and straight and 90 deg air die grinders w/ roloc bits. Any suggestions on steps/process/discs/grits/etc/ to use to dress my welds and any tips on where to find them if you have any? I also have those same HF clamps you have/used on your cab corners that I was planning to use on my panels (plus the normal assortment of clamps, vice grips, magnets, etc.).


Jason

Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.)

1950 Chevy 3100

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Cut off disc will work fine one the welds,way less heat and only grind the weld almost level.
Weld slow spot welds in different spots and hammer welds, with body hammer and Dollie


!956 Gmc Napco 4x4 Factory line built .

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If you can locate an old fender or hood they make a great test bed. Machine settings, dolly work and suitability of abrasives, etc. $50 spent in testing can save lots of heartache. I also buy high-quality cutting tools, no Harbor Freight stuff. Home Depot carries good products for this work, also a local steel or welding outlet will have all you need.

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Thanks. I have a scrap piece of a replacement floor pan I have been practicing welding on. Have not however practiced dressing welds.


Jason

Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.)

1950 Chevy 3100

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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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A spot weld cutter would come in handy. But the good ones with center pilot bit,

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I have recently replaced several panels in my '51 3100, floor pans, inner and outer cowl panels, inner and outer cab corners, and I can assure you the replacement panels have probably not improved significantly since 2006/2007. Just about every panel required some tweeking, some more than others, so you can expect this. I got my panels from LMC Truck and Brother's Truck Parts, so I can't speak for others, but I have heard some say they all come from the same place - China! Good luck, take your time and don't get frustrated!!


Charlie

'51 3100 5-Window (Restomod in progress)
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by wilsjay
Any suggestions on steps/process/discs/grits/etc/ to use to dress my welds and any tips on where to find them if you have any?
Look up posts by MPandC here, or over on the Garage Journal forums. Robert is an expert in the metal arts and has some excellent tips and detailed threads (especially on the Garage Journal) explaining how he welds and dressed butt joints.

Originally Posted by clarsen3100
I have heard some say they all come from the same place - China! Good luck, take your time and don't get frustrated!!
Some patch panels I have gotten from RockAuto are made in Taiwan (yeah, it's China, but at least not a communist country). Quality seems OK.

Last edited by klhansen; 11/22/2018 1:44 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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