I'm ready to put the weatherstripping around the door of my '48 half-ton, but I'm not sure which way it goes. Based on the bottom steel retainer, and what I've been able to see from the few pictures I have found, I think the concave side faces toward the interior of the truck (when the door is closed), and the long flat side faces the outside edge of the door (and would be exposed). Am I correct?
I don't want to go through all the effort of taking it off and starting over again if I'm wrong.
1948 Chevy 1/2-Ton "Tuesdays with Morris" In the Legacy Gallery Find it - Fix it - Drive it
Thanks, Alan. I had seen that illustration. The rubber I have has three straight sides - one being longer than the other two, and the fourth side is the concave one. If I put the rubber on the way I think it goes, the loger flat edge would be the one not glued to the door. Does this sound correct?
1948 Chevy 1/2-Ton "Tuesdays with Morris" In the Legacy Gallery Find it - Fix it - Drive it
Was doing a search on this because this is my next endeavor on my 53. Found that most pictures are not linked anymore, especially photobucket and webshots . So I found these two links on you tube showing how to do this job. Got a few hours of research so hopefully this helps someone else in the future. Steve
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Yes, I did mine like your video Alvin. Door is a tight fit but it should hopefully break in.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
I am having a fit with my '49. The seals are not compressing like my "50 seals did 3-4 years ago. Those broke in after about 2 months. Don't need to slam them. I will be shopping with The Filling Station for the thinner seals soon. (thanks to sstock)
Last edited by 52Carl; 10/30/201711:30 PM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
...not sure where I read it but maybe (Soft-Seal?) and it advertises being a bit softer and sealing good???? My memory is not as good as it use to be but you may want to check it out?
A search brought me to this approximately year old thread. I'm going to be starting this soon and have looked at the two videos that Steve (sstock) posted (Precision and Dr. J's RestorationRX) and the one that Alvin posted (Dr. J's RestorationRX) To me, it looks like each method shows a different orientation of the weather strip. Precision looks as if the 'valley' (concaved side) between the high tab (for lack of a better word) and the low tab faces the outside edge of the door, whereas on Dr. J's video it looks like the 'valley' faces the cab with the high tab on the outside edge of the door (as in how Tom R (original poster) stated. Am I seeing this right? I also looked at an earlier post and Denny's pictures confused me even more. Any info greatly appreciated. Thanks.
It's a small world, but I wouldn't want to paint it.
The orientation in the Precision video is different than that of the DR.J's RestorationRx video and the diagram from Steele which are consistent with one another. So, I'm going to follow Dr. J's and Steele's orientation.
It's a small world, but I wouldn't want to paint it.
