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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 182 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 182 | Hello out there,
Like many before me i am trying to get the doors to close on my 3100 restoration. Alignment on both doors is pretty good. I can get the driver door to close occasionally with a hard slam. Passenger door not a chance. The latches and mechanisms are new repros. I have moved the latches as far outboard as attachments will allow. I have removed the rubber bumpers from the latch. Looked in this section of Stovebolt for some ideas but getting the doors to close has eluded me. I am at the point of reinstalling the original stuff as I see some have suggested. Any help and ideas would be greatly appreciated. Jon | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Jon, much has been written about after market latches so I won't go there....and much has been written about using old latches with some modifications. Someone here, not long ago, posted a tid bit about doing something to improve/fix the old hinges. Wish I had bookmarked that one.
Many will comment here so hang on for a day or two. This is a common problem. Luckily I used some old hinges and mine shut fairly well but in all honesty, not near as good as they should. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,281 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,281 | The best advise is for you to look for NOS latches. I have yet heard a story about anyone having any success with the repro latches.
I have been able to disassemble and restore worn out original latches, but it is a very tedious and time consuming operation. It requires TIG welding new metal where the old has worn off.
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | I did as Carl suggested and welded up my original latches and strikers. My doors close with a very satisfactory “thud”. Takes time? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely. Reproductions can be brutal and, from what I’ve read, latches are one of the worst reproduction items for quality. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2016 Posts: 225 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2016 Posts: 225 | X2 with 52Carl and Fox.
After several weekends of fighting NEW repro latches and strikers, took OLD ones off of a 48 3100 parts truck I have. I cleaned, painted, and mounted them, and doors shut just like they are supposed to. Hardly had to do any adjustments at all.
Fox, you are correct, the new repro latches are the worst. They're all nice and shiny, they just don't work.
Mike
1951 3100 5 window
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,364 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,364 | If I needed a passenger door latch, I'd be on this like stink on a skunk. I need a drivers door latch unfortunately. I did go thorough the vendors store, truck parts listing and he has a lot of nos items for older Chevrolet/GMC turcks.
RonR
1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 182 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 182 | Tkx, moparguy. I grabbed it. | | |
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