The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts "67 C50 Totally electrically dead...help...

Had to replace the head gaskets, didn't mess with wiring anywhere. Battery shows 12.8 volts, Positive has continuity to starter. Negative goes to a main power switch in the cab and then returns to the side of the block. Continuity there and it breaks when the switch is thrown off. Two grounds from the firewall to the heads. All alternator wiring is hooked up and solid. I have nothing, no lights, no ignition, zip. Does not seem to have juice to the fuse block in the cab with the ignition "on"
At a total loss for a solution

Battery Negative should go to ground.

At the starter solenoid you should have the battery positive cable and another smaller wire attached to the same stud. The small wire may have a "fusable link" within a bulge, trace that wire up to the firewall or into the cab and see if you have battery voltage. If it has the fusable link and you have no voltage then I would suspect it burned open.

Hey, mac, I just had the same situation in August on our 1963 1/2 ton. All stock. Had cheap after market fuel pump fail, and after repairing it, ... No lights, ignition, etc. Seemingly unrelated to the fuel pump fix. Like you, I had voltage from the alternator.
I eventually discovered the wiring goes through the firewall through multi- prong plugs,
and I had to pull these and clean the contacts. Then I had normal juice!
Hope this helps, good luck! I know I was pulling out my hair( not much left)

Will try cleaning all the contacts...This was an old Farm Implement Dealer's hauler before I got it. There must be 20 rolls of electrical tape around all the connections.
The starter has positive from the battery to the big stud, a 16 gauge wire to the positive side of the coil, and a third off a small stud to the firewall but it goes through a grommet and into the unfused on the fuse block. It seems all screwy and is not really like any wiring diagram I have found but it all worked before the heads were off.

You just have a typical wiring mess that needs redone. Correctly. Ground to main power switch?? No no no no no...........
I agree with Gord, only add "directly" between the words "go" and "to".

By "main power switch" I wonder if he's talking about some kind of disconnect switch. I've heard of such a thing being used as an anti-theft device. Also seen them on fire trucks, where you throw that switch and it kills all power to the vehicle.
I have a disconnect on the negative post of my F-350, since it tends to drain the battery if left unused for an extended period of time.

Should have been a little better description...Rich is correct, it is a main power "Kill' switch. Just like he said. Direct from the negative on the battery to the "Kill" and then out to the block. There is nothing else in the circuit. I have to work on this mess outside an it is supposed to be decent today so I will grab my meter and start cleaning and checking positive connections. Let yah know when (if) I find the magic bullet.


Try putting the foam inserts into your hat, see if that helps....
...then let me know 'cause I can't find my hat.