The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Rear brake freeze up 1950 3100

Got a 50 1/2 ton just put new wheel cylinders and shoes on it and the rear brakes gradually lock up after driving for 15-20 minutes. Front brakes are new also but work fine. Different type of adjustment on rear wheel cylinders, is there something I have missed on set up? Any advice appreciated---thks

They heat up and get way too hot both tire and wheel...wheel cylinders appear to have two adjustments on each side...why two?

Huck brakes...... special adjustment procedure. Require more attention than Bendix.🛠

Looking from the end of the wheel cylinder, turn the adjuster star wheel clockwise to expand shoes until you feel a slight drag, then back off 5 clicks. You need to do this procedure on both adjuster star wheels on each wheel cylinder.

Anyone have info on a diagram (picture) on the components on the rear brakes shoes and hardware on the backing plate? I need to check to see if all is there and on correctly, someone else put these on this truck and the problem started. Also, thinking about updating to 51 Bendix system anyone done that? Thks!

Here's the diagram I used to put my '47 Huck brakes back in working condition. The diagram is for a 1 ton; however, it illustrates what you need for the complete Huck brake assembly.

You would need to replace the entire torque tube to swap to Bendix. The Huck backing plates won't work with Bendix parts, and the backing plates are welded on to the axle tubes.

Thanks for the info...I thought I could R&R the backing plates from one axle assy to the other but have not attempted it yet. I'm pretty sure that the hardware is not complete on the 50 rear axle brake system so that is what
is causing the wheel cylinder not to retract back so the shoes still are applying pressure. Does any supplier have a hardware kit for the Huck system? If someone has a name I would love to have it.

Looks like the main housings are the same for 50 to 51 later rear assys. I have taken them down to where the backing plates look like they will swap. Housing measurements appear basically the same and the 51 the plates unbolt where the 50 has rivets that will drill and be replaced with bolts. The patterns for bolts/rivets appear the same. Anyone ever change these? I also could use at least one new axle and a new set of spider
gears are any of this available anymore?? I need any help for information I can get...thks for any help..

I do know that the 3/4 ton backing plates are interchangeable from Huck to Bendix. I have done it and have extras laying around to look at & size up. I would think that the 1/2 ton would be designed the same way. Dave

Just cut the rivets out of the backing plate on the 50 Huck system. The collar part that is welded to the 50 housing is bigger in diameter and the 4 hole pattern is off compared to the Bendix backing plate I took off a 51 housing. I would have to enlarge the center of the Bendix plates and change the bolt pattern holes to get them to fit the 50 housing. It was close but not near a match to just bolt on. Don't want to cut the 51 backing plates to make them fit the 50 housing. Thinking maybe to use the 51 housing and put what new bearings I can get for it and change ratios but really the cost just skyrockets to do that. The only other thing is just change out the rear with an updated axle assy. If there were axles and spider gears new available and to keep it original I would do that but without a boat load of new parts it seems better money wise to update.

What is the best fit axle assy to use if I just updated the truck's rear axle?? Need some first hand advice?? Thanks!!