The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Whats your remote oil filter set up look like?

I'm Drilling my 56/235 for a full pressure system. I got some instructions from the tech section and would like additional pics if there are any out there. Plus does anybody have pics of their set up. What adapter kit did you use and how you attached it to your engine. I did a search but couldn't find the pics.

Thanks,
Rick.......

Check this thread: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=648137&page=1

Deve's How to tips

That should be the Role model of all TECH TIPS very well put together.

The copper lines and half the fittings are much smaller than the block thread on that engine.

email sent with pics

I just took some pic's for you but I dont know how to download them here. shoot me an email and I can send from there. [email protected]

Anyone know if this setup (or similar) will work on a 216? I would really like to put a remote spin-on filter on my 49 216.

Here is my 235.

Thomas

Here's a few options for remote bypass setups:

http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w186/curt160/filters/

So then since an aftermarket oil filter was available from the factory, and a modern oil filter relocation is similar to that setup, is it then required to create the two in and out holes for oil to flow in and out of the engines, or are these existing holes that are currently plugged or otherwise utilized?

It looks like from the pictures that all the setups are connected the same way. I just want to make sure there is already a fitting for the unit. I will not be drilling and tapping my block for an oil fitting.

Doing a search will find lots of pictures with arrows pointing to the locations on blocks for oil connections but I will attempt to explain them. On the drivers (left) side of the block look for a bulge that runs the entire length about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom. If you feel around the corner there will be flush pipe plugs in the front and back of the block. The bulge contains the main oil galley and is where all the pressurized oil goes upon exiting the pump. Look along the top of the bulge for a boss with an NPT thread in it nearer the back of the block. This is the pressure output for the gauge as well as a bypass filter by means of a T fitting. If the oil from here is not restricted it will take the path of least resistance and head for the filter rather than the bearings and lead to damage in a hurry. As for the oil return from the filter this is easy to identify as it is simply a hole thru the block (with an NPT thread on the outside of course) closer to the front and lower down to allow oil to drain back and if the pan is off you should see the hole on the inside. No drilling or tapping of the block is required to install a bypass filter as pipe plugs will be present in the locations identified above.


In previous discussions it was agreed upon that if the oil must go through a 1/16” hole or orifice sufficient backpressure will be present to adequately lubricate internal parts with an average consequence of 5 pounds of pressure loss due to a percentage of the oil going for filtering and not to the bearings. In summary as long as somewhere in the filter plumbing the passage size drops to 1/16” ( by drilling a pipe plug, carb jet, fitting, etc) you can use any remote mount with any filter you desire.

weren't 235's full pressure from 54 on?

High-Pressure 235 engines were first used in Powerglide-equipped cars in 1953.

From 1954 onwards all car and truck 235 engines had a high-pressure oil lubrication system.

Using the term "Full-Pressure" can be confusing when reading a Shop Manual, because Chevrolet often called the earlier, low-pressure, oil-lubrication system a "Full-Pressure" system.

This is not to be confused with a full-flow oil-filter set-up, which was never used (from the factory) in a 235 engine but was used in 1958-1963 261 USA truck engines.

I mean weren't all 235's after 54 a full pressure meaning full pressure to the rods, not splash lubrication, a 56 would aready be drilled for full pressure? I am getting confused...now a full flow oil filter would be another story.

Yes, truck 235s from 1954 onwards were higher-pressure systems, with pressurized oil being delivered to the rods through the crank-shaft (no longer using/needing dippers on the rods). Call it full-pressure, if you like, but Chevrolet often also used the term "full-pressure" to describe the features of the earlier lower-pressure oil system that had dippers on the rods.

Chevrolet did not use the term "splash lubrication" to describe the "dipper" lubrication system. The dipper system obtained oil at low RPM by dipping into the oil and obtained continuous lubrication at higher RPMs by spraying a (pressurized) stream of oil into the dippers (Chevrolet actually called it a "high-pressure" stream of oil (good for marketing, I guess).

Hello all,

Reviving this thread. I'm still an FNG when it comes to the engine lubrication system, and I've put too much effort into this project to destroy the engine via ignorance. Reading the posts about orifice size and restriction tells me I need advice on properly setting up filtration. I have a '61 235 in my Apache 10. If someone could lay out the right way to do this and what to watch out for, I and my meager wallet will be grateful. I need to know flow direction and I honestly don't know the difference between a full flow and a bypass filter, or which my '61 235 should be using. Many thanks in advance.

GW

Hello, GW,

Unless your 1961 235 engine has been converted to full-flow filtration, you have ports for a by-pass oil filter.

Flow direction:
http://www.1954advance-design.com/Web%20images/blockoil.jpg
If you have holes/ports on your block in those locations, you have a the original by-pass filter capability/set-up.

Have you looked in the Stovebolt Tech Tips section?
https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/

In particular, the excellent/extensive Tech Tip on by-pass oil filters:
https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil%20filters/index.html
There are installation instruction near the bottom of that page.

Place a Parts Wanted ad here, or check out eBay, or Jim Carter Truck Parts, Chevs of the 40s, or Classic Parts.

Just what's the cotton-pickin' problem with running an AC or Fram canister filter like untold millions of stovebolts ran for decades? Virtually all of the commonly available spin-on filters do a really lousy job of cleaning up oil because the filter has to have enough of a loosely woven media to allow enough oil to pass through it to lubricate all the bearings in an engine, keep hydraulic lifters filled, etc. Bypass filters don't worry about any of those things- - - - -all they have to do is strain out as much crud as possible and dump the oil back into the pan. When spin-on against cartridge filters are compared, the choice is a no-brainer as far as I'm concerned.
Jerry

Thanks.

http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w186/curt160/filters/


The first picture in Curt B's link shows a spin-on setup but with an Amsoil bypass filter. This is what I want to do if you think it's safe for the engine. How do I go about setting this up properly so that the flow and lubrication are correct? I want to do it this way because I would like to add a sandwich adapter for taking oil temp and pressure readings to my gauges. Still trying to find out if the threading on the filter and base will even allow me to do this. Any additional advice is greatly appreciated.

GW

That Amsoil setup is great for people with more money than brains. The rest of us will stick with the oldtime Fram or AC canister. All it takes is a 1/2" or 3/4" NPT black iron tee fitting and a few reducer bushings to mount the temp sender as close to the block as possible to minimize the temperature loss before the oil gets to the sender. The total cost of that adapter setup will probably be under $20.00, no matter what kind of filter setup you use.
Jerry

Greenman, here is the deal if you don't already understand it. Full flow filtration is where the oil flow is completely interrupted from the oil galley passage, directed to a filter, filtered, and then put right back into the oil galley on the other side of the interruption (so to speak). Our beloved early style motors do not have the ability to be full flow (except for some 58-62 261 USA truck motors) without modifying the block (an endeavor that really should only be considered if you are working with a bare block) . Our motors do, however, have the ability to filter oil through what is called a bypass oil filtration system. What that means is that a small amount of oil is bleed off from the oil galley, bypassed so to speak, sent to a filter, filtered and then dumped directly into the pan where the now clean oil is instantly diluted by the dirty oil in the pan. There is no direct interruption of the oil flow in this system, just bleed a little off, filter it and dump back into the pan.

The rub is that by filtering oil this way, you lose oil pressure. So to solve that issue, GM figured out what size restriction in the bypass system would allow oil to flow without killing the oil pressure to the motor. Turns out, 1/16 was about right so the id of the flexible oil lines that feed the bypass oil filter are about 1/16. So, no matter how you wish to do your filter, you have to restrict the oil flow somewhere along the line to about 1/16 or you risk bleeding too much oil and pressure from the motor (resulting in insufficient oil and pressure to the bearings, cam, rockers etc.)

For a good many years I ran a remote spin on Fram PH8A filter with reducer bushings and 1/16 id fittings for the lines I was using. I was using the remote spin on only because I had a dual carb manifold and could not/did not want to mount a canister type filter on the vintage aluminum manifold. That being said, the canister filters are better, at least in my opinion, because they are a little more loosely packed then a spin on (presumably because the spin ons are designed for much higher pressures) and allow the oil to flow past the filtering media a little easier.

All of the above being said, oil filters on our motors were optional, not standard equipment. You could order one as an option, or have one installed by the dealer, or for many many years, all of the major filter manufactures had after market retro kits that you installed either at home or by your local mechanic.

Now, millions of these motors ran and ran and ran without a filter ever. In my view, and I know its not the view of everyone, the bypass system is not really all that effective given the small lines (it will only catch what can pass through the lines) and the fact that it simply dumps the oil into the pan. Given that most of us, at least I think most of us anyway, are no longer driving the trucks as everyday vehicles, you could skip the filter and simply change your oil more often (if you already don't do that now). The 261 that I finished up about the middle of 2015 is the most modified I have done. Its street driven with 1951 302 GMC rods, cut down bearings, Schneider cam, venolia forged pop up pistons, vertex magneto, bigger valves, dual 38 mm webers. Runs great and I run it with no filter. With work and family, I am generally only able to get no more then 500-1500 miles on that motor per year and I change the oil once a year. Three years later, the insides of the motor is still clean as a whistle given the regular oil changes. So you have some options, some more expensive then others but in all events, do keep in mind the need for that 1/16 restriction if you are going to install a filter of any kind..

Just asking, is anyone bringing their 55-57 chevy truck to the trifive nationals in Kentucky next week?

The 1/16" restriction is built into the standpipe on the Fram or AC canister- - - -it wouldn't matter if the lines were 1" diameter pipe. The ID of every flex hose I've ever cut into has been around 3/16", BTW, which will flow far more volume than can squeeze itself through that 1/16" hole.
Jerry

As appears in another post, if you're willing to sacrifice your original fuel pump drive (in "favor" of an electric fuel pump), a full-time cartridge oil filter can be adapted to the engine without machine work to the block. The steel line between the oil pump's high pressure outlet and the main bearing bulkhead are interrupted, lengthened, and passed out through the pump drive opening to the filter, then back again.
I wrote up some of the work, if anyone is interested e-mail me.

Dragsix, that is as clear an explanation as I have ever heard. Thank you for taking the time to write it and post it. It makes sense now but at first I thought that such a small orifice would hinder flow, starve the engine's vitals and put strain on the oil pump. Hotrod Lincoln, your points in favor of canisters make complete sense, but I have tried to figure out a place to reinstall my canister filter and I'm coming up empty. Like Dragsix, I went with a dual carb setup on an Offenhauser manifold. I also couldn't afford any disc brake conversion, but I did manage to eke out enough dough for a boosted master cylinder that enhances the drums' performance. It sticks way out from the firewall, further limiting available space. I have no way to post pictures or I'd show you how tight it is on the driver's side of engine bay.

My 235 has only 61,000 original miles and when I had the pan down, the cylinder walls are almost mirror like, no discernible wear anywhere. I think no filter, the use of a high-quality, high zinc and phosphorus oil (Brad Penn for example) and very regular oil changes might be the way to go. Also, I am curious about what happens to the flow of oil at the inlet and outlet ports if no filter is set up. Could either or both of these ports be used as access points for an oil temp or oil pressure sensor? Lastly, if I do go spin-on, could you point me in the right direction to get suitable 1/16" fittings?

I am truly grateful for all the help and advice. You are all good, generous people and I'm honored to be part of the Stovebolt community.

GW

I'm getting the feeling I'm wasting a few billion electrons in this thread- - - -good luck!
Jerry

Not at all, Jerry! I reached out to you first because I have so much respect for your expertise. I agree with your advice and have tried to implement it. I just can't find a suitable place to put the canister with the other changes I've made. It's my screwup and am just trying to find an acceptable solution.

GW

"I just can't find a suitable place to put the canister with the other changes I've made."

Put your canister anywhere you like. You'll need to get lines that are long enough. It was not uncommon to attach the canister on the firewall, or, maybe on an inner fender, if you can get a good vertical angle.

You can use the port closest to the firewall for oil pressure gauge or you can install a tee and use the factory pressure switch for a dash light and an external pressure gauge. That is the port gm used for the pressure switch and is a direct feed from the oil galley.

The port closest to the front is where the oil filter, if you use one, dumps the clean oil. It is a drilled port, not connected to an oil galley so you can plug this one up. If you look at the passenger side of your head, about the middle, you should see a square head plug. This is the same style plug gm used for the front port when the car or truck was not ordered with an oil filter.

The only other things I will mention, using a filter or not using a filter, your choice. If you are dressing up the motor with say a aluminum side plate, the 55-57, and maybe the 53-54 and 58 blocks, I forget right off the top of my head, use a steel line behind the side plate that connects a port from the rear cam bearing boss and runs to a port just under the square head plug I mentioned above. This is the oil feed to the rockers. If you look at the stock side plate you will see a bubble about the middle top of the plate. This bubble accommodates the fittings for the line where it connects to the inside of the block. Many times the aluminum side plates do not have an accommodation for the fittings so it will not fit with the fittings in place. So what you can do is remove the steel line from behind the plate and install plugs in both ports. Then you can run the out put of the oil filter, or tee off the driver side rear port, remove the square head plug from the outside passenger side of the head, and run a small 1/16 I’d line right to the port. If using a filter, you are now feeding the rockers with nice clean oil.

Finally, that steel line, and the rear cam bearing port canoften become clogged over time, especially with an older original motor. When this happens, the oil supply gets cut to the rockers which eventually ruins the rocker adjuster balls and galls up the rocker shafts pretty good. Really messes them up and they are hard to find in nos and expensive to rebuild. Rocker arms unlimited in California are the best when it comes to rebuilding old style shaft mounted rocker arms. Can also happen when the rear cam bearing becomes really worn, for what ever reason. The oil pressure bleeds off through the increased clearance of the worn bearing. The aftermarket used to sell these little kits to plumb oil from the driver side port to the port on the side of the head to feed the rockers as a quick and cheap way to solve the problem of a clogged line without having to take the side cover off and clean out the line. You can duplicate that with a couple of brass fittings and some small copper line (like the type used for an oil pressure gauge). Same rule applies though. Bigger is not better. Small Id lines only.

As for lines, when I needed them, I splurged a bit and used autometer stainless braided lines for a fuel gauge. I mounted the remote housing onto the inner fender well.

https://www.autometer.com/4an-braided-stainless-line-kit-3ft.html

Not the most inexpensive of lines, but I had the same set installed for pretty close to thirty years and no failure of the lines. That worked for me.

Three or four years ago I did this and it has worked fine. Actually I used copper lines figuring the volume would be close to the same and there would be no pressure problems. One benefit to this is the screw-on filter is out of the way on the passenger side and another benefit is if I wanted to re-use the bypass filter I could still do so. As panic said, I did keep images of this work and would be happy to tell how I did this on mine.

Actually, all it would take to run a full flow oil filter system would be one 3/8" pipe thread hole drilled and tapped into the block about an inch above the oil pan rail to route the oil pump output to a remote-mounted filter. The oil pressure port in the main oil gallery could be opened up and re-tapped for a bigger fitting to put the oil downstream of the filter back into the engine.

Then a bypass filter could also be used in tandem with the full flow to actually clean up the oil, using something like the Frantz toilet paper filter to do an effective job of filtering.
Jerry

Or you could just skip the oil filter all together. These engines did not come from the factory with an oil filter. Not a single one! Change your oil every 3,000 miles or once/year.

actually once the oil goes through the bypass filter it goes into the gallery that feeds the spray nozzles, it doesn't dump directly into the pan.

That's only on splash-oiler engines. 54-up 235's don't have the circuit you're describing.
Jerry

I missed the part about 1956....