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Joined: Oct 2001
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4
Extreme Gabster
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A long-time tech tip has been to back a hole with copper and fill it with MIG wire to close it up. Now, I've done this, but always had to grind it smooth. The back is pretty good- has anybody put the copper on the "front" of the hole and welded it up from the back to reduce grinding? I have a couple of tailgate holes to fix.

Riddle me this- if you drill a small divot in the copper backer the same size as the hole, and you weld it from the back, do you get something proud of the hole that is easier to grind?

Maybe I just need to try it this weekend, but I'm out of shield gas.


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6
Shop Shark
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I was just wishing I could weld my doors from the backside-my doors are off of a big grainbed bolt w/huge mirrors-rust free but ten 3/8" holes in each door. I dunno about the drilling the divot, seems the copper does the trick leaving just a small bump needing only minor grinding.


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C
'Bolter
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I've always wondered about the copper trick. Are you saying that you hold for instance a sheet of copper up against the back side covering the hole and then just fill the hole with mig? I assume that the mig wire will not adhere to the copper? Does the copper need to be of a certain thickness?


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
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Shop Shark
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Craig, I'm just using 1/2" or 3/4" copper water pipe smashed flat. Your MIG tips are copper or copper plated, the weld won't stick to it.


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Shop Shark
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Quote
Originally posted by 64fleetside:
Craig, I'm just using 1/2" or 3/4" copper water pipe smashed flat. Your MIG tips are copper or copper plated, the weld won't stick to it.
the nice thing about the pipe is you can cut it to the correct length to reach the hole.shimm stock works great with a couple strong magnets from radio shack. nice thing about shimm stock it's light. grin

Joined: May 2007
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T
Wrench Fetcher
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I found using a tig welder and brass rod works very well.It fills the hole almost flush and almost no grinding.


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