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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | I just replaced the front leaf springs in my 56 Chevy pickup. The new shackle bolts I got from the vendor have threaded ends on them and you bolt them to the shackle on both sides. The originals didn't have threaded ends. They were just tapered pins that rode in the holes of the original shackles. Is this going to make a difference? I installed the new ones but haven't driven the vehicle yet 'cause I've only got one side done. Also, if the new setup is OK, can anyone recommend a torque specification for the shackle bolts?
Last edited by joeflanagan; 06/10/2018 8:08 PM.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 326 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 326 | Do the new shackles still have the single bolt that holds the two plates together? I don’t think there is a lot of movement between the pins and the shackle; if they are tightend down snugly, then all the movement should be on the inside where it is greased. I recently relaced all of my shackles and they were just like the originals, no threads or bolts.
Lee.
1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | Yes, the single carriage bolt is there. I got the shackles from Jim Carter. They're listed as for a 55-59. They installed without any trouble. It's just that the pin that attaches to the frame and the one that goes through the leaf spring are threaded and you have a nut on the ends. Seems to me that if you tighten them, they can't pivot, but that would be the case with the carriage bolt as well, so that theory doesn't hold water, I guess. They're 3/4 inch nuts, so I assume you tighten them pretty securely. What's not clear to me is how they can move if they're clamped down with nuts on either end.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,194 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,194 | The shackle pin rotates in the spring hanger and leaf spring itself so tighten them on up. I would be concerned about greasing them if they are not rubber bushings. Do the new bolts have holes drilled in them? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | yes, the new bolts have holes in them for grease and they've got grease fittings, too. I finished installation today but haven't driven it yet. I'm wondering if the new springs will have any effect on my loose steering. If not, I know what my next project is going to be.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | If your spring mounting hardware was previously loose, new hardware at spring-ends and pivot points might help steering.
Have you adjusted your steering box (as per the Shop Manual).
Are all your steering linkage joints tight? Are your king pins tight/wobbly? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | I've adjusted the steering box two or three times and the free play always comes back after a while. I replaced the king pins and bushings about four years ago. Also put in new tie rod ends and drag link. It's been a while since I checked the steering linkage joints but I will do that. After replacing the front leaf springs, it seems the steering is tighter and some of the free play is reduced. But I believe the steering gear box needs to be rebuilt.
1956 Chevy 3200
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