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Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 28
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 28
Glad the sun was out for a while.
Had a fun time and I am happy with pretty much everything. Manual steering wasn't bad and everything worked pretty much as expected.
Took a torque wrench with me and tightened down the lugs to 50ft lbs as suggested on this forum for a c10.
Unfortunately, the one bad part about the ride was real bad. The drum brakes on this thing are BEYOND BAD!
I don't know if the brakes are working as they did from the factory but these brakes SUUCK!
I have what I think are the original drum brakes with 2 cylinders in the firewall. I suppose 1 line goes to the front brakes and 1 line to the back brakes.
This 1964 Chevy P10 is suppose to be the same as a 1964 Chevy C10 with regard to the running gear, chassis, brakes, etc.
I see on the forum alot of people have done the disc brake upgrade to their trucks but I had no idea the drum brakes were this bad?
Maybe I have to get someone to work on these as I am out of my comfort zone on the brakes?
Build blog link attached below for anyone interested
https://1964chevyp10.blogspot.com

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,102
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,102
I never heard of a separate master cylinder for the fronts and rears. Perhaps the other master is for the clutch. Maybe the hydraulic clutch on a P series truck was a hang over from 60-62 models. Drum brakes were the standard for their day and performed relatively well.
They are nothing compared to the newer systems, however.
The first thing I would recommend to anyone is to remove the wheels and inspect the brakes before driving the vehicle. Lots of things contribute to poor brakes, leaking or stuck cylinders, worn linings, oversize or scored drums, axle seal leaks, collapsed hoses, springs, improper adjustment, etc.
Fred

Last edited by rfs56trk; 06/09/2018 3:46 PM.

1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
I don’t know the history of your truck, or what you have done on it, but as old as it is if you don’t know what has been done to the brakes, I would recommend replacing all parts that are in contact with brake fluid. Lines, wheel cylinders and master cylinder. If it has sat for any length of time, you will probably find rust in all of those components. Dpending on the severity of the rust, a simple overhaul of the cylinders will not work and you will have leaks. Drum brakes are not as good as disc, but they should work just fine in normal use.

Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
H
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
H Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
Congratulations on the test drive.


~ HB
1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery
1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Stick with us, we'll help you figure it out! keep us posted.


1937 Chevy Pickup
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 28
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 28
Thanks for the help.
Well rfs56trk you nailed it. This 1964 stepvan has a hydraulic clutch!
I didn't even think that was possible. The hydro clutch is plumbed right in front of me at the bellhousing and I didnt even notice it.
Well I'm obviously not a pro-just a hobby and I'm learning as I go.
That solves my dual master cylinder at the firewall question-1for clutch, 1 for brakes.
So, my stepvan is setup with a 250 inline 6 and the 3 speed tranny-with a hydraulic clutch that is working fine.
Unfortunatly, that still leaves me with my bad brake issue. Brakes feel really soft, with very little stopping power, and seem to give if held on for a while-like at an intersection waiting for the light to change.
I will take photos of the master cylinders at the firewall when I get back from my road trip to Charlotte, NC this weekend so anybody interested can see what they look like.

Link to photos posted of the hydraulic clutch setup below.
https://1964chevyp10.blogspot.com

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Early '60's GM trucks had them.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 28
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 28
I have posted pictures of my clutch/brake master cylinder setup.
Link to photos of what I think is a stock clutch setup below
https://1964chevyp10.blogspot.com

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
H
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
H Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
Consistent with my 62 c10. No surprises. Looks like you may have a small leak in the master. Also did you adjust the brakes after drive to see if adjustment was what you needed?


~ HB
1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery
1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban

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