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#1268521 06/09/2018 11:49 AM
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 37
4
442
Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 37
I have a 55 first series 3100 Pickup with the 235 engine. This might sound like a stupid question, but I cannot get the oil pan plug to stop leaking. I have tried different types of washers, (aluminum, copper, nylon,etc.) I don't want to keep tightening it to the point of stripping the threads. Where the oil plug is situated there is a concave indentation, which almost looks like a dent. It is located on the back edge of the pan. I have seen others like this. Not a better idea from the engineers at GM. Any suggestions?? Also, I am relatively new at this. Under the post options, it asks for UBBCode only, HTML is enabled, and UBBCode is enabled. Which one should I be using? Thank you.

442 #1268524 06/09/2018 12:46 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
That "mating" surface should be flat (preferably with no grooves).
(Over)tightening will not help.

Maybe someone will post advice on how to repair/flatten that surface?
My guess is that we would have to see the nature and extent of the distortion/damage.

As far as: UBBCode only, HTML is enabled, and UBBCode
That is OK for most posts.

Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
Short of doing a proper repair, try putting some silicon sealer around the base of the drain plug. Might be advisable to wait to add the oil but I did this for years on a Ford diesel truck and didn't wait. Always sealed perfectly and was easy to clean off at every oil change.

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,771
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Online: Content
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,771
Sealers won't help. Try removing the plug and carefully draw-filing the area where the washer seats. It must be flat and square with the thread in order to get a good seal.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Dec 2017
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D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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This is the one I used. Might do the trick for you.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-14090908/overview/


Mike
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Nice, Dragsix

Joined: Dec 2017
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D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,652
Truth be told, I totally stumbled upon that washer a couple of years ago when I was struggling with the same issue myself. Has worked pretty good for the last three years. I credit that one to the blind chicken finding a piece of corn.


Mike
442 #1268675 06/10/2018 10:22 PM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
The first time I changed my oil, there was no washer on the plug. I decided I wanted one and the local FLAPS had a generic that fit and looks alot like the one in dragsix’s post. I have no problems with it leaking, but it did not leak before without one either.

Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
442 #1268696 06/11/2018 12:55 AM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
One can also drain oil, clean threads and seat of plug, put the plug back in with teflon tape and epoxy, and forever after suck it out the top with a boat oil change setup. I had to do that because dealers used impact wrench too many times on Al plug and threads. Also saved laying in the ice to change to oil.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.

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