Anyone using one of these on their valve cover? I’m giving it a try but the first time failed. Heaven know why GM thought 2 offset bolts that you can’t bear down on would be a good idea.
I’d like to hear if anyone has had success with one. Which to me is no leaks drips or weeps.
Thx Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
Haven't had experience with the silicone gasket but......
Not sure which engine you have but have you tried the thick, I believe 5/16", thick gasket??? It works for lots of folks who may have a valve cover that is somewhat warped. I put one on my 261 engine and like it. I have heard of others using it with success.
The 2 offset bolts is kind of a give away that my motor is a 216. My valve cover is flat and not warped. The cover has 3 different mating surfaces out of 4 around the edge. It’s terrible. The surfaces are thin. The only side that really has a chance I the lifter side.
Just sayin,
Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
My valve cover is a 216 with the silicone gasket. For gasket goop I used Permatex Aviation sealant liquid. This is thick brown stuff that goes on with a brush. The sealant was applied only between the gasket and the head. I have to think this is where the valve cover would leak. Also, this allows the valve cover to come on and off easily.
As far as I know the cover is not badly warped. I tried not to cinch the valve cover nuts too tightly. The bolts were tightened until some resistance was met. Then, each nut was tightened a quarter turn until the gasket no longer moved. I pushed the gasket with my thumb to check for movement.
I didn't notice any leaks, but that's not to say it's not leaking. I will take a closer look this morning.
This should be obvious, but the gasket I have only goes on one way. One side has notches for the head bolts, and one end has a notch for the thermostat housing.
Don, what caused you to get away from Right Stuff on your valve cove gasket? I've never used it and followed your post about it with interest.
When I found a silicone gasket for the 216 rather than a cork one. The two offset bolts seem to not have enough force to press into the gasket before they start caving in. So I resealed it with RightStuff on the ends. Did a lot of driving today and everything is sealed and I’m off to a good start.
The no gasket RightStuff sealed really well until I desired to paint the engine and took it off
Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
I"m using a silicone gasket now got it online from ?????? they make airplane gasket , I wanted one for my new rebuild engine , Gotta check the lifters GAP often ? so I can now reuse the silicone gasket no leaks ?? on my 235
59 chevy apache fleetside
2007 dodge diesel 84 toyota 4 runner, v8,propane power
I"m using a silicone gasket now got it online from ?????? they make airplane gasket , I wanted one for my new rebuild engine , Gotta check the lifters GAP often ? so I can now reuse the silicone gasket no leaks ?? on my 235
Right. The 235 doesn’t have the same cover or bolts. 235 is a piece of cake compared to the 216.
Don
Last edited by Don huffer; 06/04/20181:27 AM.
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
I"m using a silicone gasket now got it online from ?????? they make airplane gasket , I wanted one for my new rebuild engine , Gotta check the lifters GAP often ? so I can now reuse the silicone gasket no leaks ?? on my 235
Which 235 do you have? The cover with 4 bolts or the old out dated pos with the 2 offset posts with good for nothing acorn nuts?
Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
If you have some 3/32 or 1/8 aluminum and you can cut it with a saber saw, you can make some handy spreaders to make the 235 valve cover (4 bolts) have pressure all along the side. The way I did that was to cut 4 to match the inner area of the valve cover. These more or less butt up to each other in the middle and extend to the front and rear curves. Then bend them right at the holes, use slightly longer bolts to attach them, paint to match, press down and tighten the bolts. If they work as mine did, you should see a nice extra force all along the valve cover sides (and also of course the front and rear). Jon
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Well Don, reading your signature line, I wonder if you are in the right place.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
If you have some 3/32 or 1/8 aluminum and you can cut it with a saber saw, you can make some handy spreaders to make the 235 valve cover (4 bolts) have pressure all along the side. The way I did that was to cut 4 to match the inner area of the valve cover. These more or less butt up to each other in the middle and extend to the front and rear curves. Then bend them right at the holes, use slightly longer bolts to attach them, paint to match, press down and tighten the bolts. If they work as mine did, you should see a nice extra force all along the valve cover sides (and also of course the front and rear). Jon
Jon my cover doesn’t have 4 bolts around the edge. Thx anyway
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
There are plenty of shady day ways of fixing the problem (some of them might actually work), but basic mechanical practices work out the best in the long run. If you continually listen to people with 235s and every other engine except the 216, you may never get it to stop leaking. You already rejected my advice on the last thread, so maybe someone else with a 216 will step up with better info that you do like. I don't have a problem with mine leaking from the cover. Silicone gasket, 216, No leaks. You do have to keep in mind that the cover needs to come off, and on again for periodical valve adjustments.
Put my 216, two bolt valve cover gasket solution in the "It works for me, no promises for anyone else" category.. Clean valve cover gasket area on head with acetone. Apply coat of KW Coppercoat gasket adhesive where the new gasket will set on the head, place new cork gasket on head. Then apply a layer of Vaseline on the cork gasket and finally apply a bead of you choice silicon gasket maker on the valve cover. Assemble and let it all dry.
No leaks and when it's time to run the valves the cork gasket stays on the head, it's not stuck to the valve cover and can be reused many times.
Again, works for me. Been doing similar for several decades however only recently have I done this on the old truck.
Put my 216, two bolt valve cover gasket solution in the "It works for me, no promises for anyone else" category.. Clean valve cover gasket area on head with acetone. Apply coat of KW Coppercoat gasket adhesive where the new gasket will set on the head, place new cork gasket on head. Then apply a layer of Vaseline on the cork gasket and finally apply a bead of you choice silicon gasket maker on the valve cover. Assemble and let it all dry.
No leaks and when it's time to run the valves the cork gasket stays on the head, it's not stuck to the valve cover and can be reused many times.
Again, works for me. Been doing similar for several decades however only recently have I done this on the old truck.
Good Luck,
RonR
Great reply and I wouldn’t doubt for a minute your method works. Thanks, Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
