The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop All was going well until I hit #7

A little background. Purchased used, but refreshed motor. Top end was done, bottom end was done, with the exception that I swapped out the cam to a 261 mechanical. The gears teeth where they mated were marked by the person that made the motor. I had a machine shop swap the gear on the cam for me and re-installed in the same position. (I didn't check the alignment marks, but sure wish I did now).

The #1 piston was TDC when I put on the head, assuming its on the compression stroke.

I was following this routine, with #1 valve at the front of the motor: TDC #1, adjust 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9 Rotate crank 360 degrees, adjust 4, 8, 10, 11, 12

As my title says, valves 1, 2, 3, 5 were off the lobe and adjusted no problem. However, the push-rod on 7 was extended and I scratched my head and stopped for the night.

Laying in bed, a few scenarios ran through my head.

#1 The motor is actually TDC #1 on a compression stroke.
#2 The cam is not timed correctly to the crank.
#3 The lifter is stuck in its bore.

Is my routine flawed? Any other options than the 3 above? What do you think the issue is?

Maybe different length(s) of that push rod and/or lifter?

Before speculating further... first check #1 and #3 , they're easy questions to answer.
What do you find?

Both push rods are down, which I get will kill #1.

When coming up to TDC on #1 watch the rockers on cylinder #6, exhaust should be closing & intake opening if #1 is on compression stroke.
Most folks I know refer to the pushrods / rocker as cylinder #x, intake & exhaust rather than 1 - 12 down the line.

Hotrod Lincoln posted an excellent way to adjust valves.
Using his method you will see every valve/rocker arm moving.

Post back and let us know if it helped solved your problem.

Listed below is a copy & paste of his post.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Companion cylinders are: 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4.
These pistons reach top dead center at the same time,
one on the compression stroke with both valves closed
(ready to adjust)

and the companion cylinder is at the top of the
exhaust stroke with the exhaust valve closing
and the intake just beginning to open.

This condition. with the valves moving in opposite directions,
is called "rocking".

Let's get ready to adjust the valves on the #1 cylinder- - - - -

Turn the crankshaft clockwise,
and watch the rocker arms and valve springs
on the #6 cylinder.

The last rocker at the firewall (#6 exhaust)
will begin to compress the valve spring, causing the valve to open.
Keep turning. The exhaust valve will open fully and begin to close- - -
the spring will relax. Keep turning.
Just as the exhaust valve reaches the closed position,
the second rocker from the rear (#6 intake) will begin to move.
Stop turning.

Go to #1 cylinder and adjust both valves.
They will both be fully closed, with the piston at top dead center.

Continue turning the crankshaft and watch the valves on
#2 cylinder as they assume the "rocking" position.
This will happen 1/3 of a turn of the crankshaft after #6.
Adjust both valves #5.

Turn again until #4 rocks - -adjust both valves #3.

Rock #1 - -adjust both valves #6.
Rock #5 - -adjust both valves #2.
Rock #3 - -adjust both valves #4.

On a hydraulic lifter engine wait 15 minutes
before starting to allow all the lifters to bleed down
to their normal running position.

A mechanical lifter engine can be adjusted the same way
with no time delay before starting.

Thank you all for the responses. Tom, you're the man. I've printed it out and will follow it to a tee.

Ken

I pulled the balancer and cam cover off and could not find any timing marks on the cam gear. However, I did put it back, the way I took it apart. What I found was the mark the prior owner put on the gear made the cam TDC for #6, 180 degrees out from TDC #1. Once I figured that out, all was good and set the initial rocker gaps.