The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk ORIGINAL KEY CODES

A factory build report posted in another thread below states that "original key codes" are available. What on earth does that mean? When a spare is required for my Chev (model year 1946) any locksmith shop stocks correct GM blanks and a copy is made using mine as the core. (Or does it possibly mean that if one doesn't have a key, one can be created from original codes?)

sandra

I have a manual around somewhere that describes the codes and how to cut the key for each tumbler pattern. I think the original keys had a knockout that had a number stamped on them. I think the number was on file somewhere along with the code.

Yes, a key can be made from the code. Code books were made for all automobiles. GM vehicles used the same codes from 1935-66.

I have a copy of the Curtis book. Anyone is welcome to pm me a code and I'll pm the cut back to you.

Cletis,
was there a number on the knockout that was the actual code?

Yes, some keys had a piece with the code number on it that could be knocked out and stored in a safe place. All door locks I have seen have the code number stamped on them. I have seen a very few ignition cylinders with the code number.

My '37 had the number stamped on the door handle, so the local locksmith just plugged that number into his machine and made the key. It worked first time, and this was a door handle I found at a swapmeet.

Joe

I have an original pair of keys for my '67. They both still have the knockouts in them. It's an alpha-numeric code. Number-letter-number-number. Maybe the older vehicles were all numbers.

Yes, the code changed in '67.

Thank you & Happy New Year to y'all

Please help me find the code on my 62 half ton stepside Chevy. I lost my only key.

Remove a lock from one of the doors or maybe the glove box and take it to a good locksmith. I believe in 62 the door and ignition keys were still the same pattern. Somewhat later the slot pattern on the keys were changed so an ignition key would not work in the door locks.
Jerry

Cletis I have a 8958 code can you send me what I need to get a Key cut? Thanks Bill

Cletis passed away a couple of months ago. That resource is gone.

Call your local OLD locksmith or GM dealer and ask if they can cut the 1935-66 GM 4-digit code keys. I got luck here about 15 years ago, the locksmith took my code and two minutes later handed me a key that worked. It cost about $5 back then!

If you search ePay with "Old-Vintage-GM-Keys by Code Number-Chevy-Buick-Olds-New" you will find a vendor that cuts keys to order for about $15. Looks like he's had over 5000 sales...

Mike B

Sorry for snagging this old thread, but I'm new 'round here and looking for any help I can get...

I'm also keyless; can anyone tell me if there is a key code stamped on the door lock or glove box latch for an AD 1950 Chev 3600 pickup? I have removed both but cannot find numbers stamped on them. Thanks in advance (no pun intended)!

Door lock

...click...

Thanks, DADS50

I never knew that the code was there.

I’m interested in this too, as I have just replaced the door lock. I took the wafer tumblers out of my old broken lock and put them in my new to me used old stock lock, so now the key codes don’t apply. I posted about it here: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...20/3/door-lock-cylinder-replacement.html
I’m still interested in all the fine details, so I’ve been researching, Please correct me if anything here is off. Here is where you can find the the key code list: http://selectric.org/manuals/locks/index.html This list appears to be Briggs & Stratton, so you may need to add 1 to each number if you go to a locksmith that uses the Curtis numbers.
Here is some information I found: GM used the same keyway groove style (Briggs and Stratton groove style 15) from 1935 to 1966. B & S B10 and B11 blanks, B10 is the octagon and B11 round.
The code will be 6 numbers that tell the depth of the tumblers-and color-and the depth of the key cut
The codes number from 8000 to 9499, giving everyone 1499 different codes to deal with.
There are 6 tumblers and 4 different depths.
If you look at the Curtis book, it has no #1 depth but it does have a #5. Subtract 1 from each number shown in Curtis and you get the B&S depths
C is a copper tumbler
N is nickle
B is black
Y is yellow
Key cut #1 is actually not even cut.2 is .025" 3 is .050" and 4 is .075....and thats the four depths

Walter
Thanks for posting that info. With it I was able to hand-cut a key to fit my door lock, unfortunately the glove box lock doesn't use the same key as it should. One or the other of the locks have been changed out, as they are supposed to take the same key. I need to get a locksmith to pick the ignition key and rekey it to match the door. May have to do the same with the glove box unless I can find a key to fit it.

You're welcome, glad to help.