The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts '63 Chevy 2 ton... Where do I start?

Back in December I caught a craigslist ad for a crane truck. I decided I needed a crane, so I bought it (figured it would compliment the rest of the rust-bucket fleet) Now, as usual, I don't really know where to go from here. My main issue is the crane itself, I cannot for the life of me determine exactly what it is, the tag is just too worn for google to tell me. My fenders are also rusted out, does anyone know if repros are available? And the little bit of metal between the fenders and the running boards is also rotting apart, are these replaceable?

[img]https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fUrmm-gQWyiGOvi3NXEpUNFvFO4fMVLq[/img]

[img]https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tnNUGITGyZTWEf5lm25oUkSQSd024Ewj[/img]

[img]https://drive.google.com/open?id=1B4A2mxdm9TXnjFpqbGnM_cByRE8HCIab[/img]

Big truck fenders are available from other donor trucks. Ebay and CL will also have them. I have not seen the fenders reproed. Not a show stopper. Same with extensions and running boards. You have a 64-66 cab by the looks of the windshield and vent window. Not a problem, but interesting. Cant help with the crane, but it sure is cool.

Cool truck!
As mentioned, you'll probably have look for a donor truck or check salvage yards.

Google the crane/ladder company-tel.... That info should help there, the phone number is even there. One could buy a whole truck for the cab only for somewhere not in the rust belt.

Wash off the weeds and get started. Looks like a lift/ladder job for working on what one lifts-telephones, signs, billboards, etc.

Ed

This outfit Terex is the successor to Tel-e-lect Products Co. At least that's what my quicky search tells me.
They may be able to help out with info on the crane.

Agreed. It definitely looks like a rig for handling utility poles.
Their tech support page is https://www.terex.com/utilities/en/service-support/technical-service-support/index.htm Based on the info there, you should be able to quote the info on your data tag (Tel-Econ Model 10A, serial 1152 and ask what they can provide to help you restore/maintain the equipment to be safe. The safety requirement might include them having to make data plates for controls and load limits available (maybe expensive to get singles made). It never hurts to ask.

Agree that making a new metal data plate might be costly, but today most stuff uses vinyl stick-on labels, and one-offs aren't that expensive to print.

I've never seen a utility company use a truck like that (to light duty for them)...but have seen sign company's use that same set-up. Back in the 50's & 60's there were tons of gas station and stores with neon signs less than 20' off the ground and rigs like this would be used to set and service them.

Mike B

Thanks guys! I hope Terex is willing to work with me, my experience is company buyouts/mergers results in orphan equipment, but I can always be optimistic! I did find some other trucks for parts, but the fenders are likewise rusty, I was hoping to not have to deal with it... oh well, another learning experience, right?

I agree with the sign company thought, there is one of those magnetic mats with the name of a sign company on it in the tool box, and the seller told me a sign company sold it off to him. They took the auger, though. Would that be a common enough thing to get a hold of? All of my searches kept bringing up skid loader mounts, pretty pointless (and expensive) to buy one, and rip it apart immediately.

The brakes don't work either (surprising, right?). The PO said it is the power booster, but when I depressed the pedal, there was no resistance, and it squirted fluid the entire pedal travel. I only have experience with the 58-59 style master, is this normal for these? Or did my master cylinder croak?

On a truck as old as this one you want to replace/rebuild ALL of the brake system components, this includes new steel and rubber lines...they fail from the inside out. The shoes and drums might be OK. While you have the drums off this would be a good time to check and repack the bearings and replace the grease seals.

Mike B

Oh, I know, I'm just trying to get it to limp around the yard for a bit, then I'll tear the brakes apart, and replace the lines with stainless tubing.

Cu-N lines are easy to work with, many flaps carry them.

Ed

Pardon my ignorance, what's a "flap"?

Friendly local auto parts store.🛠

Sweet truck, I always loved old crane trucks. Good luck with it.

If you can get the measurements of the wheel cylinders you may be able to buy wheel cylinder rebuild kits (they contain 2 cups and a spring for each wheel cylinder) the cost of these kits is usually about $5.00 if you can find them. Be sure to verify that the bleeder screws will come out first and once the kits are acquired get a small hone to hone the bore. Wash the inside clean with brake fluid after honing. In most cases the wheel cylinders can be rebuilt still mounted to the backing plate. I suggest a healthy dose of PB Blaster on the bleeder screws long before you attempt to loosen them. You may also be able to find a master cylinder rebuild kit as well.

I got the master cylinder working, turns out it only needed cleaned. I took a look at the rear axle, and I got cock eyed twinplexes. Anyone got a foolproof method to bleeding these? I just got off from bleeding my viking, and my approach (take it apart, bleed, reassemble) left a lot to be desired.

I'm pretty sure I have fenders for your truck stashed in the barn. How far does the flare stick out form the fender? I recently found out that shipping through Fastenal is super cheap.

The flare stands out about 3.5 inches from the fender. I also ran into a new problem on another truck. The tee that passes through the frame to connect the hydrovac to the rest of the brake lines gave out, is there a part number so I can get a new one?

Casey,

You should always start a new thread when you ask a new question about as different truck, it makes it easier for the next guy to search. Start a new thread and tell us what year, make and model are you asking about?

Mike B

I got the truck running pretty smoothly, but the air filter seems to have a leak at a seam, the oil level is far too low (1/3 full) for the 45 minutes I had it idling. Were these filters prone to issues? Should I try to fix it, and where? Or is a paper element more in line?

Oil bath not hard to find in junk yard. Or you can very easily use a paper filter breather that fits the carb. Or search the site for how to modify your oil bath canister to use a paper filter.