The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts raising front end

hello , i have heard you should not change the front end axle and steering , i have not been able to find that information online . i have a 1939 chevy 1.5 ton truck ,i just had the front axle rebuilt i would like to know if i can raise the front end 4 inches and where to find the information for cosmetic and performance issues mainly cosmetics . is there a limit of how high ? thank you 1pete1

you just want to raise it for looks? (assuming larger tires). You may go to a shop that builds 4 wheel drive trucks and talk to them to see what they can do and what they recommend. Even if you are going to do it yourself, you may get some good ideas from them! You may also check out a spring shop and have some higher arch springs made (Gitts spring in Auburn may be able to do that)

There are numerous ways to lift a vehicle, they do it all the time on pickups and jeeps, custom leaf springs, blocks between the springs and axle (assuming the axle is already under the springs). I have made custom spring hangers and longer shackles to raise rigs before, but those were 1/2 ton, not 1.5 ton!

What do you want to raise it for?

Ed

raising the front end is for looks and visibility , the front end sets low and i set high in the seat it makes it difficult for good visibility , would new springs work the best ? how does lifting blocks work as far as safety ? and yes the axle is under the leaf springs . i had the front springs re arched about 2 years ago , did not last long . 1pete1

Can you show us a pic of how the truck looks now ? Have you considered lowering the seat frame .

Get ready to spend a truckload of money and encounter severe steering problems, particularly "bump steer" when the angle of the drag link between the steering gear Pitman arm and the front axle gets out of level. A rig as big as a 1 1/2 ton swerving unpredictably from one lane to another isn't my idea of fun, particularly if it's coming toward me on a narrow 2-lane road.
Jerry

To correct the bumpsteer you must heat and bend the steering arm upward so the drag link remains at the stock angle of approximately ten degrees declination down toward steering arm. Generally that angle is half of average suspension stroke such that a bump to the drivers front wheel causes a leftward turn to both front wheels. Conversely as the front drivers spring is unloaded such as topping a sudden rise or the wheel falling in a pothole you will experience the front wheels turning left.

My ol' 51 Ford 1-1/2 ton used to bump-steer pretty bad. I got used to it and compensated for it when there was room. I used to have to cross the tracks in town,and every time I did,the truck would jump about 2/3 of a lane to the left. It used to scare the bejeezus out of my friends when,as I approached the tracks,I'd jerk the steering to the right and whip the truck over against the curb,hit the crossing and land in the center of my lane. It was either that or let it jump into the oncoming traffic lane THEN yank it back in place,and I preferred a vacant curb to an occupied head-on lane. I could usually split the difference and move a little to the right,it'd jump a little to the left and there was usually enough room to get by even if I didn't gather it up in time. (Made the oncoming drivers nervous though.) The point is,as I was told by an old Ford mechanic,they even did that NEW,it was one of those things you got used to because it was nearly impossible to eliminate in those days. Now days it's only expensive to fix.
BTW-My '45 Mack truck had 4 inch lift blocks on the front end from the Factory. Just use iron or solid (NOT hollow) steel blocks and GOOD U-bolts the right length for safety and get the alignment checked/adjusted by a shop that does big trucks. They'll likely have to at least angle shim the axle a little to maintain the correct kingpin rake.
Speed