The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Recommend a good epoxy primer

Can anyone recommend a good epoxy primer to go on bare metal?
Thanks. Michael

mar-hyde is the least expensive and works well.

The safest answer is to use an epoxy primer that is made by the same manufacturer that makes the surfacer, and/or sealer, and/or top coats that you plan to use.

I have been using PPG's DP epoxy primer with excellent results.

I second that!! Can be used over almost anything and under almost anything!!!

Using PPG too, sprays on nice,and takes paint very well. feel comfortable with it, may cost a little more, but after all the hours of work on the metal prep, well worth it I think

Mike

PPG or Duponts URO prime, either is great
material, but as Tim said, You are better off to
stay within a system...mixing systems is asking for problems...Bill B

For what it is worth, my buddy at the paint store recomended Omni Au epoxy primer. He knows that I have never painted any thing but a house. (not even that now that I have siding) I purchased a cheap spray gun from Harbor Freight. I put two thin coats of primer on a replacement door, and I am pleased with the results.

Southern Polyurathanes Inc, (SPI) has a good one, compatible to almost anything, nice people, good prices, shared shipping and a website forum. SPI users forum, for all paint related questions and other topics.

Used the Omni AU for the interior ( seat frame so far and window trim) laid down nice, even coat and nice sheen.. this was the first time I have painted anything with an HVLP gun, other than old license plates... for the price, highly recommend it.. the primer lays down very nice!!

Mike

Thanks for all the suggestions. A couple questions
1. If I use PPG or SPI epoxy primers, what would be a bulletproof topcoat from these companies? I am using this on my axles, frame and other suspension parts.
2. On some of the smaller parts I used a rattle can of 2K Urethane Primer to keep the part from rusting. What would be a good topcoat for this type of primer? Or...
3. I know I will get slapped for asking this, but can I spray epoxy primer over 2K Primer? I would scuff the metal until the high spots were bare metal leaving some of the 2K in the low areas.

Thanks.
Michael

The 2k doesn't form the bond that an epoxy would with the metal. I have used the ppg dp alot and i will probably go over it with por-15 for the stuff that i'm worried about gettin chipped

SPI
Their epoxy flat out makes PPG's dplf look stupid.
Any single stage urethane would go right over the epoxy for a nice "bulletproof" finish.
PPG's would be DCC
Dont remember the SPI single stage.
And yes epoxy can go over 2K urethane primer, but on bare metal nothing NOTHING comes close to epoxy.

You shouldn't put POR-15 over anything but rusty metal. It won't stick to primer.

jomichael,

What brand and product number/code did you use for:

"2. On some of the smaller parts I used a rattle can of 2K Urethane Primer to keep the part from rusting."

This would be quite handy for small jobs. It might cause me to break the "rule" of staying within the same paint system.

Thanks,
Tim

tclederman,
The rattle can is from Transtar Autobody Technologies, Inc., item # 4613. I bought it at our local body paint supply store. They said it can be used with the Dupont Nason 2K Primer that I use as well. Below is a link to their web site. I don't know how well it will work since I have not sprayed anything over it yet, but when I sprayed Eastwood's Chassis Black Primer on bare metal it remained tacky and wiped off easily with PRE. So I sprayed this stuff on and it was dry and solid within minutes. Wear a good mask though and let me know how it works out.

http://www.tat-co.com/product.asp?ID=222

Michael

By the way, it looks like you can't order from their web site. I just tried and I guess a rep will call me asking me what body shop I work for!
Michael

Jomichael's Paint & Body of course!

NO such thing as 2K rattle can anything. 2K is 2 part. Product and catalyst. Transtar calls it 2 in 1? 2K does not become a coating until mixed together. They can not be mixed and stored in aerosol cans.(rattle can).I am not trying to be a smarta$$. But you might as well know if you are going to throw the word 2k around, what it means. Don't forget I mentioned above that SPI has a users forum which has all the answers to your "can I use xxx over xxx"?. yo

bartamos,
I do understand what 2k means, and I said the same thing to the auto body supply shop. They said that it works exactly the same as the 2k Urethane that I have been using. Maybe they have been sniffing too many fumes, stinks in there.

So what shall I call it, 2 in 1 Primer like it says on the can?

Jomichael's Paint & Body

The TAT website says 2-in-1 primer but does not say what it is.

They also say "They are compatible with virtually all automotive paints."

I asked the question (above) because having a 2-K spray can seems impossible.

Considering the cost of quality exterior paint, and the time and effort taken to prepare the surfaces for painting, I'll keep using small batches of DP primer from PPG as long as I am using PPG DCC as a top coat.

TAT's Technical Data Sheets have no information about the composition if the primer.

TAT's MSDS sheet indicates that it is solvent-based product (not a 2-K product).

If it's enamel, call it Rustoleum in a different can. If it rattles, it's rattle can. Also. I don't think it's Urethane. Why do you think it is Urethane? I don't see that on the web site. We all need to go to WATER BASED PAINT, it will be the only way to go soon. No EPA or health issues. No expensive breathing apparatus required. Do it at home! No neighbor complaints! New car Mfg are using it now. The only Co. I know of is Auto-Air Colors. Goes over any primer, I think. Just two things to learn/do. It goes on spotty and first coat not meant to cover, so we have to get used to that process. Secondly, it should be heat cured with lamps. Portable lamps OK. This is the way to go. Prices are very very reasonable and Hot Rodders are catching on. You will see many articles soon.

I believe its SEM that now offers a TRUE 2K epoxy and urethane primer in spray cans.
It was debuted at last years SEMA show...Eric

Here is SEM\'s catalog I could not find an aerosol (spray-can) 2K primer.

Does anyone have a link to a 2-K aerosol-can primer? Here is one example. Once the can is shaken, it is good for about 8 hours.

There might be a manufacturer that has a nozzle with a dual feed - the two parts mix in the nozzle. Does anyone have a link to a product like this?

as to sevt_chevelle post on PPG's DP primer being stupid please disreguard. I have been restoring and painting cars for 20 years. I have yet to find a primer available to the general public that bonds better than the DP epoxy primer including Duponts self etching primer 615-616. I have yet to check into the SPI epoxy primer but I will. I will post later to let you know what I find as far as bond, compatability ect... and how it stacks up agianst the DP primer. Who know it may be better but for the time being DP is excellent primer.

"If it's enamel, call it Rustoleum in a different can. If it rattles, it's rattle can. Also. I don't think it's Urethane. Why do you think it is Urethane?"

Since I am not a chemist and still learning about primers, I asked the so called "pros" at our local auto body shop if there was a can of primer that I could use on small parts, under the 2k Urethane that I use for larger panels, and they handed me the Transtar. I asked what is the difference? They said nothing, its a 2 in 1 Urethane primer. Go figure, can't trust anyone in these small towns to give you professional advise.

I'm glad I asked this question before I went too far! I will try an Epoxy Primer.

Ill have to some looking throu my files, but it was a big name company that released the 2K spray bombs.

As for the DPLF statement, you have your opinion I have mine. But when you can take lacquer thinner to weeks/months old dplf and wipe it clean off metal, how good of a primer is that?

sevt_chevelle,
That's interesting, I was able to wipe off the Eastwoods Chassis Primer with their PRE product days after application. Then I sprayed the Transtar primer (note I didn't call it 2 in 1 or 2k!) on the bare metal and it would not wipe off even 10 minutes later. What gives? Are some primers more finicky than others?
Probably better for a new thread.

Small parts: SPI epoxy primer and a Preval sprayer (Harbor Freight, cheap). that's what I did. Just google Preval or search threads.