The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Clearcoat sanding

I have just primered, color coat, and clear coated my dash plus garnish molding. I have a few sags and orange peel on pieces that I have a lot of work in. I am not a painter! What do you guys do to to get rid of the peel and sags? I am guessing sanding but with what grit or grits. After sanding which I am sure will dull the gloss, what do I do? Another question is...I used a high solids clear cloat (2K) with a slow activator. Is that the right activator for 55 to 65 degrees? One more...if and when I get all the screw-ups out of the paint, can I go back over the dried clear coat with another coat? Thanks for the help.

I wont be too much help,but from my experience ive just wetsanded out the runs,bugs,etc... with 1,000 wet paper and buffed it from there.
Im sure someone else will be along shortly with more detailed and experienced info.
Marty

I agree with delux54panel. Wetsand and buff.

I'm no expert, but I think you're going to have to knock down the runs and sags before you wet sand. Use some 400 grit to carefully flatten out the high spots only from your runs and sags... then you can wet sand your whole dash.

Eastwood sells a little file mounted on a piece of wood that will easily knock off most of the sag or run without touching the rest of the paint. Then sand with 1000 grit and buff.

The dash and loose trim are very tricky to refinish, lots of contours,angles ect. You said you used a slow activator, when it's cool you need faster drying agent, and when it hot you need slower agent. For the sag/runs, alot depends on what coat the runs showed up in? Are the run/sags in the primer, sealer, color coat or clear? If your lucky you may be able to just sand out the sags in the clear, with "very" fine sandpaper, and then buff/rub out the rest. If your not lucky, you get to try it again. Its very important that you follow the paint manufacters directions. and I can't stress enough about wearing the proper paint/air mask. That stuff can kill you! Just my 2c.
Phil

You can try a razor blade on the sag to get it down a bit. Be very careful that you don't cut the clear coat around it. Go very slowly just to take it down a little at a time. Wet sand with 1200 grit and lots of soapy water, then 1500 grit. Buff with tecnique cutting cream #7211, till you get a dull haze. Then buff with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze # 3 to a shine. Then wax. You have to change pads on the buffer, I used a foam pad for the first step and a buffing pad for the Meguiar's. If you have a NAPA store they can fill you in on what you need. As Yakimabowtie said, be careful of all the edges and contours. You will cut thru the clear there very easily with the sandpaper or the buffing.

I doubt much that You will be able to save it
without refinishing...I am sure You will bust through the clear, then You will have to spot finish
with basecoat again, and re-clear the complete dash
again...You can use ultra fine 1000 with water on the clear, or the maroon colored 3-m hairy pad to
prepare the clear for re-coat...Bill B

Beltfed, I agree with frank, if your going to polish by hand, finish sanding with 2000- 2500g it will be easier buffing. Don't wax for 60 to 90 days. Wax can trap solvent and make a white haze. You can also block sand with 600g and spray another coat wet coat of clear, cut it about 15% with med reducer.

i agree, knock it right down again and remove your imperfections, this time- apply your clearcoat pretty dry, then last coat something like, you can always buff by hand to control the 2 k shine, any orange peel etc, a drop of 2000 grade with soap and water, should come up a treat, if not too shiny--or providing you dont hit the under color, just flat it down and re clear coat as normal

if your having trouble with drying times, just put a nats cock of rocket activater in with mixed paint, it will be touch dry in 15 minutes

Thanks loads for the help guys. Hey "stevie-t", I thought rocket activater is called a match.