The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Finally got my '46 ready for test driving

except there's no brakes, but when has that 'stopped' anyone?!
Starts, shifts and runs good, master cylinder rebuild kit on the way, already did all the wheel cylinders. Got those to quit leaking then the master started losing fluid. Almost there. Then I gotta start on the paperwork (no title).
But it's been a blast running it up and down the street and in the large parking lot down the road. Still getting used to double clutching.

[IMG]http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc59/smashsquatch/IMG_20171210_164520.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc59/smashsquatch/IMG_20171210_164331.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc59/smashsquatch/IMG_20171210_163818.jpg[/IMG]

cool looking truck!

videos, driving around the yard.... not too exciting to watch, but really fun behind the wheel.

fun to see driving around as well! Only thing better is being there or being in it!

NIce!, she sounds good.

The first time they move under their own power is always a neat feeling. Congratulations!

Thanks. Still waiting on the master rebuild kit. Am suspecting the generator needs a rebuild too. But overall I'm creeping up on getting 'Otis' on the road safely and legally.
I'm sorta looking for a long bed for it, but may end up building my own version.

I got a notarized bill of sale, took it to CHP shop in Brighton, sent me title.

Ed

Hi Ed, what is the CHP shop?

Colorado Highway Patrol.

Ah, duh!
Hey Ed, did you drive your truck there or just show up with the notorized bill of sale? Was this fairly recent? The DMV gave me a big stack of homework for the title process, something like..

Proof of Insurance

3 day temp tag so I can go to Sheriff's office

Have sheriff verify the VIN

Then back to DMV for title search (to see if it's been stolen or someone has a rightful claim for the vehicle

Then I can apply for a lost title.

All these steps have fees associated with them too. So if there's a way to go see some officers on a one stop trip, I'm all for it.

I trailered my truck there. Forgot exact procedure, it's been a while. Lady in Longmont DMV office fixed me up(with the title paperwork that is) , she is very knowledgible(rare). Apparently all inspection offices are not allowed or prepared to do this. Official inspector is at Gunbarrel fire station Tuesday's only, need to make appointment-call 289-4760(Brighton) to see if there is closer inspector. Find knowledgeable person(if possible) at local DMV office-might take some doing. I can tell you which one in Longmont if you can stand the drive.

Ed

Couple more videos of driving.....





Brakes are just about satisfactory. Wiring headlights and brake lights, then off to the DMV

More very short videos from around the yard and down the road.

Tin sure is nice.

Ed

Thanks. Looking for a long bed. There's one set up as a trailer (correct color/patina too!) about a mile down the road, but the gentleman who owns it likes it. Says it's not for sale, but I'm keeping an eye on it.

Well, after some driving, looks like I need to install a clutch.
( )
Is it common to replace the clutch on a '46 with the engine still installed?
I have a decent amount of room to get under the truck and work and can drive up on ramps before beginning.

Any advice?
Thanks,
-Scott

#1: should be - should be - if it has original flywheel
#2: common? - possible:yes (common for some people)

Thanks. Yes, I meant common practice. Still new to these old trucks and wrenching on them.

Oh, do you have to remove the bell housing need to be removed to get the clutch out?

Thanks again.

Nice truck and great videos!

As far as clutch replacement the engine and bell housing can stay but to get the clutch out your transmission will need to come out. It’s a pretty straight forward job.

Keep up the great work.

Thank you for the info on the clutch. It does seem straight forward and fairly easy, other than the tight accessibility. I'll probably have a few more detailed questions when I get into it, once my parts arrive.

Make sure and replace the throwout bearing while in there, check the pilot bushing also.

Ed

Will do & thanks for the reminder. Any other clutch replacement tips are surely appreciated. Assume I know nothing. Thanks.

Always get the flywheel resurfaced, since it does half the work, along with the pressure plate that's on the other half of the clutch disk. Then it will operate smooth for many smiles.

A plastic imitation input shaft should come with the new clutch for ease of installation, if not included, ask.

Ed

A little food for thought. I could not pull engine and tranny combo out of my 5700 LCF, had to remove tranny first.

LCF is a whole different animal as far as clearances go.

Ed

Thanks guys.
I did have a specific question about the pedal adjustment. My manual (1946 Chevy cars and trucks) says my pedal should have 3/4"-1" free travel BEFORE removing clutch. My clutch pedal adjusting nuts have already been maxed out (this was the first thing I tried when I suspected the clutch was slipping, only to find out it had already adjusted all the way - toward the 'hook'). Although I do currently have the recommend amount to free play in my pedal, I fear that if I don't set the adjustment near the middle of the adjustment range, I won't be able to adjust it after the clutch is installed.
Seems like I should set the adjustment nuts somewhere in the middle of the adjustment range to allow for tightening or loosening of the clutch pedal to dial it in after the install. I hope that makes sense. Any thoughts? Thanks again.
Also, I suppose I should drain the transmission first?