Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 218 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 218 | I'm working on a 66 Chevy pickup and will be doing some body work, but will be driving the truck. So, show quality is not necessary, but I do want the paint to adhere, etc. If I have a panel stripped and then apply epoxy primer, sand the spots that require filler, apply body filler...then what? Do I coat that spot with epoxy again before applying a filler primer?
Thanks | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | That is the way my buddy the bodyman does it,,Brian | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | SixPac,
I'm just a amateur...the epoxy, or 2-k primer I use Is a filler primer. It is very heavy bodied.
They make a sprayable "Bondo", but your non-show quality truck certainly wouldn't require this item.
The sequence would be...bare metal coated with etch primer, and this is truly optional..then coated with 2-k primer. This coat is lightly abraded and body work and any Bondo work is done.
A final coat of 2-k primer, either to spot cover the filler, or re-coat the item for added sanding, then your final color.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 | Just to add.......in case you didnt know....primer doesn't protect from rust. Its actually very porous,,it acts like a sponge. Lots of people think theyll sand their truck down and prime it and drive it for a couple years,,,,it'll start rusting before you know it. Marty | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Marty,
I'm pretty sure the 2-k primer is impervious to just about anything. This is the stuff you see on rigs that are just primered and run around the streets forever...even through the car wash.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 289 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 289 | Ok, What other experiences & opinions are there concerning driving around a for a year or two with just 2-k primer? I think some of the black hot rods seen are actually a flat Old school type modern top coat and not primer. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | no doubt some of the rods use a flattened finish coat, but epoxy primers [2 part, high build or thin build] are definitely waterproof and can be used for top coats - my 58 did fine for a couple years with the front epoxy primered until all the body work was ready for paint - and epoxy primer can be tinted to some extent
the primer-surfacers, etching primers, and the usual lacquer rattle can primers aren't waterproof
Bill | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 339 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 339 | Must be the new generation bodyshops nowadays, but the only fillers applied to a body was on bare metal only...At GM every product on the market We had and used daily, plus using experimental products, materials that never was introduced to the market because of being so toxic...I am sure that the 2K primers would be waterproof, being a urethane based primer...The flat looking black cars, they painted with flattening compound in the paint that kills the gloss...Was popular on street rods... Bill B | | |
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