I'm thinkin' 1 of 3 possible scenarios for this engine....
1. total overhaul 2. hone cylinders, new rings, seat valves 3. clean it up & go with it
All I'm after is a decent running engine, I maybe drive it every month or so for a day, (if the weather co-operates) I'm also trying to keep the $$ down (if you know what I mean), I'm retired and Daughter's wedding approaching.
Tell me if you think I'm crazy or what do you suggest?
Engine's been sitting for a while (years??). The crank does move, although I only moved it 1/4", didn't want to create add'l problems.
If I decide on #3 (above), before I tear it down I'd like to do a compression check, but before I crank/spin it, I want to make certain cylinder walls are well lubed above and below pistons so as not to cause any possible damage. I've sprayed the cylinders with a "ton" of Penetrating Lubricating fluid and let it seat for a few days.
My thought is to mount the engine on a stand, rotate it upside down, pull the pan and lube the bottoms of cylinders.
too much work? easier way to do it? fill the pan, flip it over? not necessary?
Engines get hard to turn, or lock up entirely because the piston rings rust to the cylinder walls. Pull the spark plugs and pour 3-4 ounces of KROIL (www.kanolabs.com) into the cylinders. Wait about a week, pull the oil pan plug, and most of what you poured into the cylinders can be drained out and put back into the plug holes again. After a few cycles of fill/drain/refill, use the chisel end of a shepherd's crook wrecking bar or some other type of long pry bar between the flywheel teeth and the bellhousing to turn the crankshaft a little. Repeat the soak/drain/soak cycle, and keep turning the flywheel a little at a time. Eventually you'll get the engine to make a full turn. It's also a good idea to remove the rocker arm assembly and pushrods so sticky valves can be dealt with at a later date.
There's about a 50/50 chance you'll be able to get the engine running without a complete teardown and overhaul, depending on how deep the rust pits in the cylinders are. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Jerry, with the plugs out, I can easily turn by hand, I guess what I was thinking is whatever I pour on top of the piston might not evenly coat the bottom of the cylinder wall and pullin' the pan is easy enough. That Kroil is good stuff, thanks for the "heads-up" on the valves.
OK, just cut to the chase and run a "dry" compression test, followed by a couple of tablespoons of motor oil in each cylinder and a "wet" test. There's no need to get anal about an engine that turns freely. These things are as rugged as a Belgian plow horse. I'd suggest pulling the valve cover, not the oil pan, and liberally oiling the valve stems with something like KROIL, PB Blaster, or some other penetrating oil. Definitely DO NOT use stale gasoline from a dirty gas tank to start the engine- - - -the gummy residue it contains goes right to the intake valve stems, makes them seize up, and bends valves and/or pushrods after a few minutes of running. That usually happens after one warmup-cool down cycle when the crud hardens in the valve guides. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
It would have to be WAY down the valve guide, near the full open dimension. Fortunately, the intake valves are the only ones that get close to the pistons, and they're almost at right angles to the piston top. The exhaust valves are way up in a recess in the head, and it's impossible to get piston contact. If you're turning the engine by hand and there's piston/valve contact, the piston just tries to push the valve closed without bending it. At running speed it's a whole different kettle of fish!
You can deal with sticky valves by getting the engine turned several degrees past top dead center where there's no possibility of valves and pistons getting together, soaking the stems with penetrating oil, and repeatedly tapping the rocker arm tips with a dead blow mallet- - - - -bouncing the valves up and down on the seats. That has a tendency to dislodge any rust or crud buildup. Really stubborn sticky valves require pulling the head and a detailed cleanup, however. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
