| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (55shaker, dt235sd, Hanks custodian, NJC, 3B, Gdads51, 1 invisible),
211
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,086 Posts1,056,098 Members48,434 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 176 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 176 | Years ago we use to use metal prep (Zinc oxide) on the bare metal before priming. I don't hear of anyone using it anymore. I have talked to body guys that are friends of mine, that have never heard of it. leaves like a galvinised finish on the bare metal. We use to scrub it into the metal with scotch brite pads.
1970 C50 dump! saving orphans from the CRUSHER
| | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | DuPont makes a metal prep that you wash the surface with it then rinse off with clear water before it has a chance to dry. I then use a self etch primer it is zinc oxide in color, then the primer you are going to use before top coat | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | Red oxide is still around. I have several cans in my shop. Time marches on though and the stuff I use now is called self etching primer under base coat-clear coat. I purchased some yesterday for a '39 Packard complete dash I'm restoring to the orginial wood grain. Since the pro's get $200.00 for a glove box door alone I'm doing it myself. I sure as heck don't want to see this paint start to peel or chip.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 176 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 176 | The stuff I am talking about is more like what bondo man is saying.It is a clear liquid to prep the metal, Not a primer, you would prime after. like a extra step before priming. I believe it was a zinc oxide liquid. I'm pretty shure it was called metal prep.
1970 C50 dump! saving orphans from the CRUSHER
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 | I have a product from Zero-Rust called "Prep-Step" I'll be using on my 53. Sounds like it does the same thing you're refering to. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 79 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 79 | Rust Master, you are referring to phosphoric acid. Turns the rust into iron phosphate. It comes in various concentrations and a few auto body suppliers still stock it. There are safer products out there though.
A word of caution that if you do decide to use it, you have to be real careful with it. Acid resistant gloves and an air purifying respirator rated for acid fumes is a must. Along with good ventilation.
And be sure to neutralize it with a baking soda and a clear water wash. Any left over acid or soda can play havoc with anything you use to coat over it.
I've also heard of some navy guys that swear by Naval Jelly. I tried it a long time ago. It is basically the same product, but in a gel form. In my opinion it makes more of a mess.
1949 "Heinz 57"
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 428 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 428 | This is what I've been using on bare metal before epoxy primer. So far I've been happy with it. http://www.autobodystore.com/r-o-n.htm Bob | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3 | For the most part metal prep is a thing of the past. Most body shops use a self-etching primer, which eliminates the need for metal prep. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 176 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 176 | Thanks, Thats what I thought old school technology. I have been out of the body buisness 15 years (worked in a body/restoration shop while in high school/colledge) we were using the metal prep, but the varaprime etching primers were just comming into main stream then. Epoxy primers were fairly new. Yes we did use acid gloves, no resporator, good ventilation though. I was too young and stupid to wear fancy resporators then. I would now!
1970 C50 dump! saving orphans from the CRUSHER
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 | Ospho, aka phosphoric acid, is used by my body shop after wire brushing and sanding and prior to applying the etching primer. We used Ospho on the ships in great quantities. Phosphoric acid converts iron oxide (rust)to iron phosphate, which is inert or stable. You can find Ospho at most hardware or marine supply stores. For more details about this product take a look at Ospho I hope this is not considered advertising as I would hate for the zookeeper to lock me up  My 1941 in the Stovebolt Gallery My Photo AlbumBut I tried, didn't I? ... At least I did that. RP McMurphy The past belongs to the future...but only the present can preserve it. Besides the noble art of getting things done, there is a nobler art of leaving things undone. | | |
| |
| |