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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,113 Posts1,056,619 Members48,450 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 370 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 370 | Is there a tech tip for replacing the rear wheel/ axle bearing in a 3600 Eaton HO52 in a 1949?
Thanks Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 370 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 370 | Okay. That might get me through it. Will I need any special tools?
Thanks Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 370 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 370 | Well I Pulled the old hub and will replace the hub and bearings both. Big job for me.
Thx
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 | I've read that some stovebolters are leaving the race in place and just replacing the bearings. I'll be there soon.
Julian Carter
1970 Triumph GT6 1967 Triumph TR4A 1952 Chevy 3600 1948 MG-TC
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 186 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 186 | Not a good idea to do half a job.if there is wear on one part there will be wear on the other. When wheel bearings start to fail,They generally start pitting.that is the hard surfacing starting to deteriorate. This will be very noticeable. Second problem is the race wearing, clean the race and look at it real close. One can see uneven wear and at times feel the wear. Which is why it is important to replace bearing and race together. Now if it is obvious that there is no pitting or wear then they can be reused. Which ever way you go be sure to get the proper bearing preload when putting it all.back together. Use the info from the shop manual . Hope this helps. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Often the original brgs. are conical. The rollers are barrel shaped instead of straight rollers. The replacements are straight rollers. Obviously they cannot be mixed. The outer brg has to come out from the inside of the hub. It is harder to do then most.
George They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 370 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 370 | Task complete. Once I figured out how to tear it down I was on my way. Thanks Tim for posting a link to what now seems obvious, the shop manual. After pulling the axle I found the two bearings all puddled in the bottom of the hub. So I didn’t really know what it was supposed to look like. A quick trip over to Napa and one of the counter guys pointed me in the right direction for the rest of the break down. They had the correct bearings and seals.
Taping out the races was easy but that snap ring holding the outside bearing in place was about as frustrating as doing the headliner in the cab. I did my best to “wash” the metal shavings out of the axle housing but without removing it I’m sure there is still a small amount left behind.
Nothing on the ring and pinion gears looked even slightly worn. The ring gear has 32 teeth. Someone here can probably tell me what my ratio is.
Reinstalling the hub fit like a glove. There were no gaskets on it so that’s the way I put it back together. Didn’t leak before so I used the same sealant. It took 6 quarts of gear oil to get it to the exceptable level. That’s a lot of lube.
On a scale of 1-10 this for me was an 8. I’m not a gear head so this taxed my knowledge and experience quite a bit.
Thanks for everyone’s help. Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 ODSS Lawman | | ODSS Lawman Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 | Glad Tim and others could point you in the right direction!
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns.....1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-TonThe GreenMachineIn the Stovebolt Gallery | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Congratulations, Don
At least three lessons were learned: - check out the Shop Manual (and, hope it has photos and a clear description) - post any questions here, and try to figure out what has been posted - give it a try - go slowly - at each step, re-read the manuals and re-view any photos
One lesson we did not suggest: see if there is a Tech Tip (here - top-menu) on the subject.
Good luck with your next adventure. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 | Tim, we notice you are particularly swift at posting shop manual reference links here. Can you lay out your digital process for us? Notionally it should be faster than the 5 minutes it takes me to get up from the easy chair and walk into the study to retrieve the analog version.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Allen, I have a "truck" bookmarks folder at the top of my browser - the top entry/bookmark is Old Online Chevy Manuals (by Keith Hardy). Even if you own a Shop Manual, if your year-manual is there, that on-line version is easier to use (and it does not get smudged when used). I keep re-arranging the bookmarks - most used near the top. There are also links to other resources on my website (the link is under my signature). Also - look at the top menu - Tech Tips Access to Information is a good start on any project/problem. Then, first-hand experience matters as much, or more - there are experienced members, here. Finally, I try searching here (the Search function/tab - the top menu Search). | | |
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