The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop follow up on electric cooling fan

Having installed an electric fan on the upper half of my radiator, I can get suitable control of the engine temperature. Thanks to all for the guidance. Now, I need to find a suitable temperature controlled switch for the fan. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I am currently using a 160 deg thermostat.

Also, where is a good location to mount it? The '46 radiator does not have a location. There is a plug in the lower half of the thermostat housing. Don't see why this wouldn't work.

Bob

May want to check out Summit racing.

https://www.summitracing.com/search...0&sw=Coolant%20Temperature%20Sensors

Ideally, a cooling fan switch needs to be adjustable. Fan switches for recently-manufactured vehicles are usually set to turn on at 220 degrees, and switch off at 200. Since the average stovebolter gets an attack of the vapors if the temp gauge gets up to 200, the fan will never come on. Even using a 7 lb. radiator cap raises the boiling point of the coolant to 233 degrees, so most of that concern is misplaced, but there's no sense arguing with someone with the attitude "My mind is made up- - - -don't confuse me with facts!" With a high pressure rated radiator and heater core, a 14 lb. cap brings the boiling point up to 257 degrees!

If the coolant temp rises much above the thermostat setting, there's either not enough radiator, an incorrect fan position, or a dirty cooling system. Running an electric fan is like taking a big dose of aspirin for the headache caused by a brain tumor- - - - -you're treating the symptom, not the cause of the problem!
Jerry

I haven't seen a good attack of the vapors in a long time. But seriously, the standard fan setup should work fine, like really fine. If you need an electric fan, there is other issues. OH, Jerry just said that.

Jerry,
Yes, I am aware of the cause - the fan IS too low. I only recently realized that this was a problem with installing a 235 in place of a 216 (and no, I never noticed until it was pointed out to me). At this point in time, I am at least satisfied it is not an engine heat problem, which was my biggest concern. So, at this point I am left with treating the symptoms, but not the cause (have I seen Rocky Horror Picture Show too many times?). When the money is available, I will spend $500 for a re-core of the old radiator plus the cost of raising my fan location (which can't be done with the current after market radiator).
Bob

Bob, have you looked at the kit sold by Pre68Dave that relocates the water Pump?🛠

Regarding my '46 PU, I created the cooling problem when I installed the later inline motor with that low pump, which then lead to the fan hitting just about everything on the front of the engine. So only fix at that time was to go to a much smaller fan with skinny blades and in the wrong location. The easy fix for me was the electric pusher fan out front which did solve the problem of not enough air going through the radiator. Amazingly enough I don't need to use this electric fan much at all but on those really hot days in heavy traffic. But if you have a clapped out radiator all the fans in the world will not be the fix. Best of luck

JiMerit
Sounds like you and I have been working on the same truck. The electric fan solved the problems nicely, but I would like to find a thermal switch to replace the manual toggle switch. The only ones I have found on-line have metric threads. And a suitable spot to install it.
Bob

I would just use the manual switch. Those automatic ones fail too often.

Search Ebay for "electric fan switch". There are about a dozen switch/relay kits on the first page I looked at, with turn-on temperatures as low as 175 degrees.
Jerry

First item listed was what I was looking for. I must have entered a different search string - never came across this page. Thanks a lot! I even found one that ships from US, not China! Yeah, I know - it still comes from China, but I don't have to wait.
Bob