The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Shift arms hitting Offenhauser intake..

Hello all, I have transplanted a 261 into my 1952 Suburban. I tightened up the steering box bolts and the linkage from the column shifter is hitting the Offenhauser dual intake. Has anyone had this problem and if so, how did you remedy this?

I was thinking of grinding the end of the shift arm or possibly trying to shim the steering box out.

I'd hope someone else has run into this problem and fixed it simply.

Thanks!!

You might take a look at a 56 up column shifter box. It has a dog leg on the 2-3 shifter arm for clearance on the V-8 exhaust manifold.
There could be some adjustment to the shift rods neccessary.
Fred

If you go with a 56-up V-8 shifter box, please report back on how well it works, and what shifter rods you used.

I'd like to dispose of my original "rebuilt" by Jim Carter shifter box that caused me to change to a 4-speed.

The 3-speed would allow another front-seat passenger.

I'll see what I can come up with and report back..

Well, my solution was to "adjust" the slot in the steering column. I decided this would be the easiest solution to my problem. I drilled a hole with the same diameter as the slot and filed the material left from the holes. This allowed for the sifter box to slide up the column allowing for clearance of the shifting arm and the manifold. I never realized the collar that attaches to the steering column has threads for adjustment. I used this to adjust the movement of the shifter. It seems to have been a simple solution that is easily covered up with the shifter box.

I am trying to picture what you have done.
You have elongated the slot allowing movement of the shift box up the column beyond what was designed.
The purpose of the original slot was to allow movement of the shift box to adjust the distance between the end of the shifter handle knob and the steering wheel to avoid it from interfering with either the steering wheel or the dash.
I am assuming that the "collar with threads" is at the top end of the shift box shaft where it meets the shift arm.
If this is the case, I would be concerned about whether there are enough threads engaged in this area so as not to wear out and let go over time.
These threads were not designed for adjustment of the above mentioned shifter knob positioning. The slot in the mast at the shift box is where the major adjusting takes place.
I would not be worried about it except that the threaded collar is not made of the most durable of materials and many of them wear out from normal use.
Now if your "adjustment" of the collar resulted in engaging more of the threads and not less of the threads, then you will be OK.
Carl

Carl, Thanks for the info. This is an exact representation of what I accomplished. I did not consider the long term wear on the threads of the collar. I did indeed, adjust such that allowed for less threads captured. I'll keep an eye on it. I also could have adjusted the length by elongating the "saddle" for the coupling. But, this is still an option, thoughts?

" I also could have adjusted the length by elongating the "saddle" for the coupling. But, this is still an option, thoughts?"
That would work. Just remove the coupler bolt, and the shifter lever assembly from the column and and put it in the vise and cut a new notch in the shaft. Then you can tighten up your collar threads where they were designed to be.
Carl