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| | | Forums66 Topics128,048 Posts1,055,666 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 3 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 3 | Hi guys, I’m not sure if these fenders are able to be pounded out. I have Very little experience with body work. In fact the last and only time was a couple of weeks in high school working for Earl Scheib, and then it was “any car any color for $29.95” So you can tell its been awhile!! I took the fenders off because there were small cracks in the finish, so after A LOT of sanding the old bondo off, I find all these dents. It looks like whomever did it, just hit all the high spots down so he could fill them with bondo. I’m not sure if that’s a bad way to go or not. This is NOT going to be a show truck. But it seems to me if I try and pound things out, my fenders will be a couple of inches longer by the time I’m done! Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks Mike web page | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | They don't look any worse than the fenders that are on mine when I got it. I'd suggest getting a hammer/dolly kit (swap meet tool vender-about $35) and massage them out. It's not really too bad of a job to do. Just don't rush it. Save the filler for after you get it as smooth as you can. I'd also suggest using the Dynatron filler, better quality than the regular Bondo for about the same price.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 141 | Mike, I found the same thing after taking off enough bondo to build a truck with,I got a set of hammer & dolly's from Harbor freight and they work great,so dont be afraid it'll just take a little time is all | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | mike g,
Ditto on what was said above. My biggest hesitation on banging dents has always been the fear of stretching the metal and not having the skills to 'shrink' it down again...I still have those fears as I haven't yet learned the proper method for shrinking metal.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 169 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 169 | http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=004000 | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 641 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 641 | i take the easy way out i say just bondo them and be done with it you could spend hours on them only to have them look bad if you get high spots or streatch the metal out if there that bad just get better fenders | | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | Mike, we all know the least filler ya can have is best , especially in front fenders ,they take beatin from road debris and flexin from the wind ..be best to massage them out best ya can to get rid of as much excess filler ya can ...or your new paint job ...lookin like a million will turn into CRACKS and rust that you will not be happy with 6 months down the road after water gets under it .. work out the metal as best ya can before puttin 2 inches of BONDO on it .. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 587 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 587 | Metal shrinking is easy, you just have to learn how to do it. I took a body shop class at my local vo-tech, and was taught how. But it is a skill, and I suggest you practice on a junk fender first. But the technique is, using a torch, heat the area you want shrinked, using a circular motion of the torch, keep it moving, but only a small area, 2 inches in diameter or so. Don't get the metal red hot, just heat for a few seconds. Then take a wet rag and cool the area by rubbing the hot area for a short time. You will find the metal tightened up when you push on it, the "oil-canning" will be gone. Then move on to a different area. It will take a lot of treatments to stop all the oil-canning. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 584 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 584 | Most small dents are going to come out without much stretch. Metal bends and when you take it back into place, there is some give and most small ones will pop right back into shape (with some patience). Shrinking metal is usually for large flat areas like roofs, doors where you get an area that "flexes" in and out when touched or pushed on. Heat can be used as brian said, but not always necessary if you are worried about it.
Don't just fill....crime of the century. You will always know you didn't do it right. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 3 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 3 | Thanks guys, I made a trip tp Harbor F. and picked up a set of body tools. I took them for a test drive on one of the fenders. Not as scary as i thought it would be! I'll just take my time. I dont know how this even got started. Had a leaky seal in the rearend and now i'v got all the fenders off! Well i'v gone this far, looks like the rest will have to come off too!! Stick around guys,I'll be needing more help real-soon----Thanks again Mike | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 395 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 395 | filler is only to be about 1/8 thick so you need to remove dents at least to close to that,,,remove all paint use 36G leave disc marks push filler on fender with force cover complete fender block out and do agin until looks good...doc | | |
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